Posted on 04/21/2017 12:22:53 PM PDT by entropy12
My Acer Laptop was running ridiculously slow. I was getting ready to junk it.
You did not “spell out” what FUNCTIONALLY CHANGED, merely the perceived result.
What functionally changed is memory no longer loads a driver, the driver called “Microsoft ACPI-Compliant Control Method Battery”. It is not your battery or a battery, but a driver running in the op sys that is among other things doing (supposed to be doing) power control management.
While you took it out memory, by disabling it, it is still on your system. There are instances of the op sys re-enabling it, though the triggers are apparently not consistent.
You can also uninstall the driver, so it is gone and not just disabled.
However - two things: It may in fact just be corrupted and NEEDING to be uninstalled and reinstalled. Yet, it seems if it is uninstalled and not reinstalled, a subsequent Windows update can reinstall it.
There - that’s what is actually going on.
Your system “running better” was a result, and from all you said you did it may be temporary. I’d uninstall the driver and install the latest update of it, then see how the system performs with it enabled. Then again, it’s possible YOUR system NEEDS an older version of the driver (compatible with your system’s chip set), which was replaced with an incompatible one during a windows update. You can also test that theory with the suggestion to uninstall, update and reinstall the driver.
You may have to do the disable routine on it after later Windows updates.
Good luck.
Usually that would indicate no problems. I use this report quite frequently in my job to identify PCs that are experiencing problems.
Later
Microsoft Windows. There’s your problem.
M4L speed up computer
mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm
Yap. Can’t live with it, and can’t live without it.
I wanted to keep the “fix” as simple as possible for use by FRiends. Not many FRiends are computer geeks.
Also, if Windows Update loads a new driver, it should merely replace the old driver file with the new file, and it’s application in the system should remain as defined by user system configuration settings. I have not seen Windows update messing with my personalized and customized settings.
I have more than once had Win 10 updates change my wi fi setting to “turn of when idle” for a while, reversing my setting to leave it alone. I have other incidences from previous updates in earlier versions of windows.
I’ve done all that on my 4yo 32bit ASUS notebook and it still runs something in the background, offline online don’t matter. Tried Task Manager to see what was running, couldn’t find anything except IE pages using more and more memory just sitting there. Remote access disabled; shut off updates, still runs on. Load a page and it says, long script; hit stop script, says, reload page; ad nauseum.
The only website that works no issues is Free Republic !!! lol
My battery is 100% charged. When I disabled that function and then unplugged the power cord (with the computer turned off), the battery charge light began flashing an error message. Turned the computer on and it did start up and was running on the battery, still flashing the error message.
I Enabled that function and the error message still flashed until I restarted the computer, still on the battery power.
If that function is disabled with a 100% charged battery, and then you want to move back and forth between battery and ac power, there will probably be problems.
The "fix" might be good as long as one doesn't try to use their battery.
Time to consider Linux Mint????
And after I used about 20% of my battery, I plugged the ac adapter back in and the battery is recharging normally.
Looks like for me I can use the “fix” on ac power, but if I shift to battery it will set off an error message flashing at recharge indicator light. Makes sense since that function being disabled does control the battery to some extent.
Good to know. My Acer Notebook permanently runs on both battery and AC power adapter. If I remove the Adapter from computer, the battery light stays on steady, and the AC power light off, as both lights should.
Now I am typing this with AC power removed. Computer running normally and at the faster speed. Battery Light steady, not flashing. Go figure! Thanks for the experiment anyways.
Make sure you update Windows and the drivers for your laptop or desktop PC. At work we use Dell pc’s for the most part. The images that were created for the different models we use failed to have all the drivers installed. I think the Network dept just installed Windows 7 and did a Windows update then froze the image as the people who call in are complaining how slow everything is on new pc’s or re-imaged pc’s. Dell has at their support site two things you can use to get the drivers. Dell Command and Detect Drivers. I have has calls with the pc missing 200mb to 917mb worth of software from Dell needed. The updates fixed the issues.
Check your model and update.
Go here for those with laptops to see how to take it apart
http://laptopmedia.com
I have an Acer and it boots in 15 seconds using a SSD drive. No issues so far since I bought it in Feb of this year.
http://laptopmedia.com/highlights/inside-acer-aspire-e-15-e5-575g-disassembly-internal-photos-and-upgrade-options
7 Sites With Laptop Teardown Guides & Other Laptop Repair Resources
https://www.technibble.com/7-sites-with-laptop-teardown-guides-repair-resource
Further experimenting, I Disabled that function with the computer running, then switched to battery and it worked with no error message. I just don’t have the battery icon/monitor when the function is disabled.
Then I plugged the ac adapter back in and it started recharging as normal. Looks like I can use the battery with the function disabled, just no icon/monitor in the task bar to tell how what % of battery remains.
The error message flashing lights occurred only when I unplugged the ac adapter (with the function disabled) with the computer turned off.
I’m going to experiment with the function off and with the ac adapter for a day or two and determine if I see any improvement.
SSD (Solid State Drive) and Hard Drive Disk are not the same. Please see this video to understand the difference.
For example the hard drive on my Acer notebook has 300 GB capacity. I bought it used on eBay for $50 delivered to my home. How much will a 300 GB SSD cost?
Last year I bought a Toshiba desktop with SSD and Windows 10. the capacity of that SSD was so pathetic, the OS took up most of it, and my application software had no room to store it on SSD. I returned the computer for full refund.
Start in safe mode, then download/run Malwarebytes, CCleaner (clean comp and then registry fix), there’ll help. Open the startup folder in the start menu, delete all these shortcuts. Get Autoruns, that’ll show you a bunch of auto running programs you can stop.
Check installed programs in control panel, Google search stuff you don’t recognize, uninstall some stuff.
Been there, done that. Malwarebytes did not find any malware. CCleaner I run like every other day. Defrag disk many times. Clean Registry errors every other day. Tried stopping certain services. Nothing helped.
The slowdown issue was obviously related to driver for the battery. As soon as that driver was disabled, it was like letting a cooped up horse let out of the barn. Computer lag reduced 5 to 10 times!
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