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To: HandyDandy
Just looking at the picture of the bolt I have to say I have only seen that style of bolt used to attach a “plate” that is no thicker than the depth of the countersunk flank. Is what you are calling a “block” actually a thin plate?

Man, I wish I had the time to upload and post photos of the work area, so folks knew what I'm dealing with, but I just can't do it til this weekend.

The bolts I'm working on pass through an aluminum block/plate and then screw into a solid aluminum spacer rod, which has a mirror setup on the other side. Between the two blocks/plates, are the roller wheels, mounted to the shaft.

It's the separator rods that the bolts are actually tapped into, not the blocks/plates.

206 posted on 03/13/2017 6:31:39 PM PDT by Windflier (Pitchforks and torches ripen on the vine. Left too long, they become black rifles.)
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To: Windflier
"It's the separator rods that the bolts are actually tapped into, not the blocks/plates."

I suspected as much. Therefore heating the block/spacer may do you no good. The bolts are threaded into the separater rods. The separater rods are where you want to apply your heat and/or apply your PB Blaster. I would imagine that the bolts pass-through unthreaded holes in the block/spacer. You have great input in the thread above for loosening a "frozen" bolt. You just need to sort through it for your unique circumstance. And be sure to check YouTube for the exact repair on the exact piece of machinery you are working on. You may not be the first guy in this situation. (Maybe there's a repair kit?) Meanwhile keep it soaked in the loosener of your choosing right up till the coming weekend. Don't forget that it's seven years of bad luck if you break the mirror. Always wear safety goggles. Use plenty of snake oil and elbow grease and think before you act.

215 posted on 03/13/2017 7:18:12 PM PDT by HandyDandy ("I reckon so. I guess we all died a little in that damn war.")
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