If that doesn't work, try using a small propane torch to heat the shaft. The difference in thermal expansion of aluminum and iron will break the bonds between them, allowing you to remove the setscrew..............
Thanks in advance.
Kroil is good so is SeaFoam. We stock our trucks with either or.
Actually, an electric heat gun will help a lot, too. Use a real heat gun, not a hair dryer. You can buy one from Harbor Freight for around ten bucks. The coefficient of thermal expansion of aluminum is nearly double that of steel, so a good warmup will expand the aluminum around the steel and help a lot.
The problem with rusty bolts is that rust is steel that is combined with oxygen. Therefore, it has more volume than the original steel. The extra volume fills in the gaps and actually tightens the bolt. That's why heating it, which expands it, helps so much.
Heat the aluminum block with a propane torch. The aluminum will expand more than the steel screws, freeing them from their holes.
Drill a pilot hole down the middle to relieve the pressure. Heat the aluminum around the head. Impact the bolt with a punch the same size. Remove with correctly sized hex driver with electric hammer drill.
You may have some luck with freezing the screw using a can of ‘freeze’ from an auto parts store. Not sure what brand you local store will carry but they all do the same thing. The idea is to get the largest temperature differential between the aluminum block and the ss screw.
Aluminum conducts heat so readily that the suggestions for heating it would likely take way more input than reducing the temperature of the screw.
All other things being equal, the impact driver will be the ‘gee I shoulda had one of these years ago’ answer to your predicament.
Heat them and tighten them first.
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Are they liberal or conservative screws?
Some years ago I had gotten a massive antique door, with very big hinges, one frozen. The door was very valuable and the hinges irreplaceable, so my anxiety was off the charts. WD-40 was useless, as was heat. Force was out of the question.
What finally worked was applying heat plus vibration, using a vise to put a block against the hinge and then hitting that with a power drill.
Like tapping it, only with enhanced force. In other words, “power tapping.”
There are other tools that will do the same job but all I had was the drill. Never want to do that again. :(
WD-40 is the wrong thing to use. It is a protectorant, not a loosener. You’ll wait forever and nothing will happen. Remove the WD and get some Liquid Wrench and apply it. After little while, you should get action.
Jeweler’s torch (Ace Hardware) - heat them, let them cool and they will unscrew if you haven’t messed up the heads too much.
Almost 200 posts about an alen screw.
A bunch of Gearheads, FR is a haven for Gearheads.
It’s all starting to make sense now.
wire EDM. just kidding.
1. Quit worrying about what is the best penetrating product or weird homemade formulas and just go get the PB Blaster. It's real hard to find - Not. Auto parts place, Home Depot, Lowe's, Walmart, hardware store, etc. PB should be in your standard maintenance supplies.
2. Soak the screw over night. As another poster advised, wrap a soaked rag over the screw if needed to keep the screw wet with PB.
3. Call in a machinist. You don't appear to have the tools or experience right now to deal with this. Look over their shoulder and learn for next time.
4. Time is $$$. How much time have you spent on this? How many $$$ are lost by machine downtime? If qualified staff and tools are not on-site then you need to have both a machinist and an industrial electrician on call 24/7 to keep the machines running. Stuff breaks. Stuff repaired or maintained by persons outside their skill levels is a recipe for more breaks and safety hazards.
Patience. Take your time. Lots of good advice so far. Haven’t used Kroil, sounds amazing . The shipyard at Newport News used to use PB Blaster which is decent.
Another method would be to drill out the “head” of the Allen bolt. Collapse the head of the bolt, remove block, use pliers to remove shank of bolt. This requires a good drill bit and a steady hand.
I have used carbide deburring bits in die grinders to accomplish the same.
Good luck! Let us know what works.
If that doesn't work, try using a small propane torch to heat the shaft. The difference in thermal expansion of aluminum and iron will break the bonds between them, allowing you to remove the setscrew..............
CRC makes Knock’er Loose which you can purchase at Grainger.com. It has a freezing agent which allows the solvent to penetrate the fastener, fitting or shaft. I have used it successfully many times (sometimes you will have to apply it twice if the item is encrusted with corrosion or mineral build-up).
Ez-out them, about a minute per hole. Never-seize on new screws.
Just in case someone has put a steel screw into aluminum with Loctite(idiotic,but it’s been done)then you’ll need heat to break the Loctite loose.
I have no suggestions to add, but I just wanted to say you’ve proved Free Republic is the go-to place for those needing a couple screws loose!