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Freeper Gearheads! Overtightened nut, stripped stud. Turns 4ever but won't come off..! :>(
Me ^ | Aug 20th, 2016 | me

Posted on 08/20/2016 2:26:32 PM PDT by gaijin

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To: gaijin
Nutcracked from local auto parts place.

http://www.usatoolwarehouse.com/usatoolwarehouse/KDT-715D.html?gclid=Cj0KEQjw_9-9BRCqpZeZhLeOg68BEiQAOviWAt0N2luVv6UoyQs3aIsEhRrrfJe2nndVDcRUMXN4bIYaAoZA8P8HAQ

21 posted on 08/20/2016 2:38:32 PM PDT by super7man (Madam Defarge, knitting, knitting, always knitting)
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To: gaijin

Some auto parts places sell nut-splitter tools, but you may not have enough clearance to slip one over the nut due to the oil pan. Do a web search for the tool and take a look.


22 posted on 08/20/2016 2:39:24 PM PDT by Charles Martel (Endeavor to persevere...)
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To: gaijin

Try a nut splitter.

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/PFM0/W88030/N0716.oap


23 posted on 08/20/2016 2:40:16 PM PDT by eieio1
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To: gaijin

Take the bolt into Advance Auto, explain the problem, then ask them if they would recommend a Heli-coil fix.


24 posted on 08/20/2016 2:40:23 PM PDT by tumblindice (America's founding fathers: all armed conservatives.)
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To: gaijin

drill it and use an “easy-out”.

recut the threads and install a new screw.

I recommend an o-ring...just to make sure.


25 posted on 08/20/2016 2:40:29 PM PDT by Cletus.D.Yokel (P)
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To: gaijin
Nuts? Why didn't you say so????

Get a hacksaw blade and go to work! Saw down one side then pry it loose with the screwdriver.

26 posted on 08/20/2016 2:40:33 PM PDT by amorphous
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To: gaijin

YOUTUBE


27 posted on 08/20/2016 2:42:55 PM PDT by CGASMIA68 (kant spell er punktuate,fluncked english.Gramer to!!)
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To: gaijin

Also, a stack of thin washers cut “open” into a “C” shape might be tapped behind the nut. Stack them one at a time until the threads grab.


28 posted on 08/20/2016 2:43:56 PM PDT by Charles Martel (Endeavor to persevere...)
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To: gaijin

“Oil boogers”?

You need to see a doctor, man.


29 posted on 08/20/2016 2:44:46 PM PDT by blueunicorn6 ("A crack shot and a good dancer")
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To: gaijin

Machinist’s trick....get another 10mm nut that fits on the stud...run the new nut down to the old nut...tighten the two nuts against each other, locking both onto the stud...this will give you leverage on the nuts to back or pull the stud out.


30 posted on 08/20/2016 2:46:17 PM PDT by rottndog ('Live Free Or Die' Ain't just words on a bumber sticker...or a tagline.)
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To: gaijin

Most likely the threads in the engine block, or on the stud, are stripped. Is the block aluminum? If so it’s those threads most likely stripped.

Studs don’t drill out very good. Best to grind the stud/nut off.

When you get the stud out of the block it will require a thread repair of some sort. Tap to larger size or a heli-coil repair.


31 posted on 08/20/2016 2:47:37 PM PDT by dynoman (Objectivity is the essence of intelligence. - Marilyn vos Savant)
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To: gaijin

Get a small (1/2 in or so) triangular file from HD. Lay it flat against the nut and file lightly around the bolt.
Then the nut will start out on the threads with your grips.
Watch alignment and you won’t hurt the bolt.

a triangular file is great for light repairs to threads.


32 posted on 08/20/2016 2:47:44 PM PDT by mrsmith (Dumb sluts: Lifeblood of the Media, Backbone of the Democrat/RINO Party!)
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To: gaijin
The pan is held by ten 10 mm nuts featuring 100% health. The pan also has two 10 mm nuts, one of which has 100% health. The other nuts is the culprit and...is making my life hell.

I'm confused. What are the 'two' nuts for? If they don't hold up the pan what do they do?

Good luck.

33 posted on 08/20/2016 2:48:07 PM PDT by raybbr (That progressive bumper sticker on your car might just as well say, "Yes, I'm THAT stupid!")
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To: gaijin

If the nut and stud is stainless steel it’s probably galled. You need to use some sort of anti-seize on stainless.


34 posted on 08/20/2016 2:49:36 PM PDT by dynoman (Objectivity is the essence of intelligence. - Marilyn vos Savant)
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To: gaijin

Does the stud thread into the block...could tack weld nut to stud and essentially turn it into a bolt and back out.

If not, could you take off all other pan bolts and pry between the pan and block to put downward force on nut while you try to back it off.


35 posted on 08/20/2016 2:49:42 PM PDT by lacrew
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To: gaijin

$50 inverter for AC tools ... drill the sucker out and quit playin’ with it.


36 posted on 08/20/2016 2:51:58 PM PDT by knarf (I say things that are true ... I have no proof ... but they're true ... and it pisses people off.)
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To: gaijin

Tack weld the nut to the stud and if you do it right you can turn the whole stud out with a socket or wrench.
This is common practice.
Some times you can weld a spare bolt or nut to the end of the stud.


37 posted on 08/20/2016 2:52:15 PM PDT by right way right (May we remain sober over mere men, for God really is our one and only true hope.)
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To: raybbr

Helicoil or a nut-splitter.


38 posted on 08/20/2016 2:55:21 PM PDT by clyde260 (Public Enemy #1: Network News!)
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To: Artemis Webb

Smart ass ... but best laugh I’ve had all day. Thanks!


39 posted on 08/20/2016 2:55:29 PM PDT by Comment Not Approved (When bureaucrats outlaw hunting, outlaws will hunt bureaucrats.)
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To: Clay Moore
Get between the pan and block with screwdriver or knife?

I agree...Something to get between the pan and the block and force the pan to the bolt while you try to turn it...Have used that procedure on countless numbers of bolts...

40 posted on 08/20/2016 2:57:02 PM PDT by Iscool
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