70 RoadRunner

[Jimma]

I just picked up a 1970 RoadRunner. It has been sitting (in a tent) for 5 years. The motor was (allegedly) rebuilt before storage with 0 miles. I have it running nice, but am worried that no oil is flowing to the top end.(I have only ran it a minute or two at a time). I can remove the valve covers and see, but would rather not. Are there any easier ways?

[headstamp 2]

You’ve been spending time at Bob’s the Oil Guy haven’t you? (grin).

[headstamp 2]

I’ve been told that the “High Mileage” oils are better oils for any engine due to their anti-wear additives that aren’t present in regular oils. Is this true?

[CommerceComet]

Take it to a shop before you get in over your head.

EXCELLENT ADVICE!! With a car of this vintage, you don't want to mess up something that could be easily fixed by someone who knows what they are doing. If you were tinkering with an old Pinto, I'd say do it yourself - if you mess up - small loss but with a classic '70s muscle car - I'd recommend you bring in some expertise - you don't want to screw this up.

I plan to follow my own advice. I have a Ford 427 side-oiler block in my garage. Once I find something worthy of putting it in, I'll have the engine rebuilt. I tossed around the idea of rebuilding it myself but decided that I didn't want to screw this up.

[Kickass Conservative]

The best idea, take it to those “Graveyard Carz” guys.
They only do Mopar.

[Gen.Blather]

“I’ve been told that the “High Mileage” oils are better oils for any engine due to their anti-wear additives that aren’t present in regular oils. Is this true?”

You need the oil called for by the manufacturer. New additives are made for newer engines and are compatible with anti-wear coatings you find on certain cars. I believe the additive you want is called ZDP. (Zinc Di-Phosphate, as I recall.) You may not be able to get the exact oil called out by the manufacturer. If not, call the company and ask them what substitutes for that oil today. Alternatively, join a car club. Bring a chair and pot to p*ss in ‘cause they’ll chew your ear off.

[BikerTrash]

I am told that it was on the production line to become a SuperBird.

I don't quite understand what you're saying here, but I don't believe that there were any 383 Superbirds, so that's kind of odd.

As to your original question, I also wonder, (like quite a few posters here), why you have concern that your valve train is not oiling properly. Most of the advice given here is good, FReeper motorheads are purdy smart. I'll add my two cents FWIW...

You probably won't be able to see much through the various holes in the valve covers, but you should at least be able to see if you have stamped steel rocker arms or cast units, (possibly even something more exotic). If the rockers are the stock stamped units, they are non-adjustable for valve lash and that means you have hydraulic lifters. If this is the case and they were not getting oil, it would indeed be noisy. If not noisy, that would only mean that the lifter galleys are pressurized and is not a guarantee as to whether the heads are oiling properly.

BTW, it's possible to have adjustable rockers and still have a hydraulic cam, but that's somewhat unusual.

I had one thought that hasn't been mentioned yet. It would require pulling the valve covers off but you wouldn't have to run the engine. Get an oil pump priming tool, (you can buy 'em, I built mine, nothing to it, hex stock, I forget the size), and a reversible drill, (counter-clockwise is the direction). Pull the distributor, making note of the rotor position. Pull the cam gear, again making note of the position. Insert tool, spin it and pump oil as long as you want, probably want to do this when/where it's warm. Take pains to not bugger up the distributor bushing in the block, although it may need one anyway if the rebuilder didn't replace it, (it's easy).

I took great interest in this thread as I am currently giving my older brother's '70 Roadrunner a pro street treatment. He bought this car new when he was 16, a 383, 4-speed car. Put a 528 Hemi aluminum head motor in it, talked him into putting an 8-stack Hilborn setup on it. Tube front end, tubbed with a 4-link, the works. Grew up with that car, love that car! Might even get it done someday.

Hope this helps, good luck! We'll need to trade some pictures.

...ping to uglybiker, anotha FReepa Roadrunna lova...

[Jimma]

When I first got the car (alleged) rebuilt 383,, the oil was CLEAN. After got it running (2 min) the oil was milk.Changed the 0il & filter. Ran again,, 3 min @ a time for maybe 15 min. No oil comes up to the valve covers. So Dropped the oil pan,Cleaned the screen(dont ask It was gray sludge((which I think is part of the problem)))Pan is back on (screen is clean) Starts Runs No oil in the valve cover. Yeah get an oil pressure gauge. Then what??

[Michigan Bowhunter]

Cracked block or head

[Jimma]

No leaks, from the block, heads, or anywhere. I am going to try something in the oil. I have heard ATF or Kerosene. I am having some other issues. I ran it up on jack stands, and the wheels moved in Reverse and Drive. I moved it out of the garage. It went slowly in reverse and didnt want to go in drive. Its probably just low on fluid but the pan has to come down. The tire rod ends are replaced, linkage is painted and back in place. Same as the oil pan. Baby steps.

[Jimma]

A quick update. It now runs drives and stops. The oil flow to the top ends, is not an issue, The trans filter is changed. (it actually did its first smoke show today,((I left the 2x4 behind the rear wheel(((didnt see it with the snow)))but the tire smoked right up on the wood and backed right over them. We are getting the engine compartment ready for paint (SubLime Green), and ground down the Radiator Support. Guess what, MATCHING VIN #. I have a question for any MOPAR encyclopedia guys, have you ever heard 0f Roadrunner (1970) WITH POWER WINDOWS? There is no fender tag(the holes are there, but no tag). I will post some pics soon.

[Jimma]

Here are some pics
http://s907.photobucket.com/user/imjimma/library/?view=recent#/user/imjimma/library/?view=recent&page=1&_suid=1391943632937046154367637394855

http://s907.photobucket.com/user/imjimma/media/RoadRunner061.jpg.html?filters[user]=96518584&filters[recent]=1&sort=1&o=4

[BikerTrash]

So you are satisfied that the top end is oiling now? I’ve been pondering what would cause that problem and other than some sort of crud blockage I’ve come up with the following:

1. Spun a cam bearing.

2. Improper/damaged head gasket/installation.

3. Rocker shafts installed upside down, (side to side doesn’t matter, I think, working from memory here, been awhile since I’ve done a B block).

Milky oil/sludge does kind of sound like an internal water leak as Michigan Bowhunter was hinting at. I’ve had the problem of head gaskets not sealing until the engine was brought up to operating temperature the first time. Since it was supposedly a fresh rebuild and you were only running it for short periods at first this could be the deal on that, especially since it seems to have fixed itself. It’s possible.

I’ve seen GTX’s with power windows but never a ‘runner, although I’m almost sure they were available. Aftermarket perhaps? Should be easy to tell.

Bummer about that fender tag. Maybe there is a build sheet someplace, they are usually stuck in the springs under the back seat. Doubtful, after all these years.

Checked out your pictures, thanks for those. One thing bothers me, Roadrunner engines were orange, I don’t think there were any exceptions in 1970. I could be wrong about this.

Keep going, the damn things always get done...eventually.

[Jimma]

Cleaned the oil inlet screen(replaced valve covers(everything was fine))Runs like a champ, just about ready for paint. Sublime with a black interior.

[headstamp 2]

I have heard that the “High Mileage” type oils still contain some zinc.

[Gen.Blather]

“I have heard that the “High Mileage” type oils still contain some zinc.”

If it’s not on the label it’s not in the product.

[headstamp 2]

Sorry General. Just realized I was pinged to an old thread.