Posted on 09/05/2012 4:09:22 PM PDT by Kartographer
Yes, calcium carbonate. The M-16 was designed to be fired with IMR powder. At some point in 1966 or 1967 the Pentagon decided to use a ball powder because a contractor had figured out a way to recycle huge stores of obsolete artillery propellant into ball powder. That's where the calcium carbonate came in. It would foul the gas system and the chamber. Either of these could cause the most common malfunction which was a failure of the extractor to extract and eject the spent cartridge.
The Dri-Slide probably got a bad rap but we were officially
forbidden to use it after a certain date. During the whole M-16 jamming debate, which went on for about six months or so, Colt Industries had factory consultants in Vietnam trying to figure out the problem. From what I read, they were focused on how the rifles were being cleaned in the field and I think Dri-Slide was the first thing they jumped on as a culprit. I know after it was banned people who get their parents to send them Dri-Slide in the mail.
Acetone will eat or soften many plastics.
The solvent that I use that seems to be less aggressive on plastics is lighter fluid - the stuff that people used to use in Zippo lighters.
I’d be especially careful with acetone around some of the high-gloss finishes used on some guns - eg, the high-gloss finish on Browning rifles and shotguns is softened by acetone.
I’ve used amsoil on my Barrett before, no problems, went through about 1500 rounds during a smud operation we did in EOD. SMUD is small munitions disruption. Had a squirt bottle filled with the stuff, 100% synthetic.
My personal favorites are Militech and Kroil these days in retirement....
We’re I back active duty and in beau coup pucker factor belt mode.... I’d piss on the weapon if I thought it would help....
My Ma Duce always had the big ass spray / squirt bottle , about 2 quart size, near the weapon or hanging off the vehicle mount or tripod.
That said I tend to believe some techniques used by troops are a revolving door as new and better products are always popping up and deserve to be tried and tested prior to actual combat yet in same conditions with same regional materials such as wait a minute vine and or concrete grade of fine moon dust mark one mod ohhhh dirt , mud etc...
The men should never have to discover in the field what they could have and should have been taught in training.
Doom on those who teach the book versus the real world facts...... My personal experience and opinion only.
Simple green for cosmoline and Kroil for my oil unless I’m packin my Hk 416 to reduce the troubles and toils......:o)
Hope yer well MileHi !
Stay safe...l.
Study up on a product called: “Molly Fusion” and ALL these issues are solved-—and it improves an arm like a $200.00 trip to a gunsmith. Accuracy, velocity, and maintenance are all affected/improved.
Check out brake cleaner-—DEgreases metal NOW. Keep it off of the finished wood and some plastics.
Judging by that photo-—you need a hobby.
As for cleaning: Look into a product called “M-Pro 7” for cleaning carbon and plastic deposits:
http://www.mpro7.com/mpro7-gun-cleaner.html
Big Loud AMEN here.
When I attempt (usually unsuccessfully) to describe what a real penetrating oil like Kroil can/does do vs. what is marketed as a penetrating oil (eg, WD-40), the resistance to change is remarkable.
While the WD-40 product actually has proven to be horrible stuff to use on guns, the marketing of the damn stuff is terribly effective.
On the farm in Nevada, I learned the value of paying up for a real penetrating oil like Kroil. We’d have bolts/nuts on equipment and implements that would resist the torque of a 3/4” impact wrench - which, if you feed it enough air, can apply over 650 ft-lbs of torque.
Douse them with WD-40, wait overnight and nothing would happen.
Douse them with Kroil, go get lunch, come back and hit them with the impact... zzzzzip! Off they’d come and the threads would be wet through and through.
I can highly recommend Kroil for use in firearms, especially freeing up parts that have been corroded into place. I’ve used it to recover guns (old .22 rifles handed down and not fired or cleaned in 40+ years) that were literally rusted shut and could not be opened with a rubber mallet until the action/bolt was soaked in Kroil and allowed to set overnight. The stuff actually works as a penetrating lube. Another use for Kroil is to soak exterior rust on blued guns, then use brass wool (available from Brownells) to *softly* brush off the red rust without stripping the remaining blue.
Of course, you’d much rather never have to deal with these scenarios with active duty weapons...
Yours is the third personal BTDT recommendation for Militec-1 I’ve seen - I’ll have to get some to try it out.
Not discounting your experience ... I don't own any such ... but FWIW, 20 years of Ed's Red use has had no discernible effect on the glossy finished wood furniture on my Browning Hi-Power.
IIRC, "Zippo Fuel" is naptha, very similar to gasoline.
You're absolutely right about penetrating oils, BTW. WD-40 is nasty stuff, not a lubricant and not an effective penetrant. 3-in-1, Kroil, et al. are penetrating oils; the difference is obvious when used.
That's a full fledged duhhhh anyone should have known.
Bookmark for gun cleaning/lubing. Thanks for the information NVDave!
a side note, worked for a large overhead door company in Mn for awhile. We used regular motor oil to lubricate both springs and rollers on exterior doors. Its the only thing that worked in both the extreme heat and extreme cold of Minnesota. I now use filtered used oil on the rollers at home
Guns have wood and/or super plastics close at hand and such things as skateboards use precision steel bearings in plastic moon housings with soft polyurethane just outside. I want a lube that is not only o-ring safe but has also been tested for on varieties of plastics and products.
I now use filtered used oil on the rollers at home
since i am just using it as a simple lubricant, i have a very fine wire mesh chinois that i pour it through that collects most of the particulate
Good review of the Kroil..... I’ve got a case of it in the shop as well as some in each vehicle and my range bag. Little goes a long way.
The paperwork that comes with your order of Militec is a must read as its like the frog lube .... Strip yer metal, heat it to expand the pores and then slop on the first coat an then let it cool off on the wife’s cookie rack.....
Wipe off the excess after its cool an yer done.....
I think if your veteran or active duty Militec will send you a sample of the products.
Also take the time to look at rustpruffe . I’ve used this simple product for decades, you will lose it before you use it all..... Best stuff made for wiping down a firearm before storage or going into a humid environment where surface rust is the norm.....
https://prostores3.carrierzone.com/servlet/rusteprufe_com/StoreFront
Stay Safe Dave....
What you seek is krytox ....
http://www2.dupont.com/Lubricants/en_US/index.html
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Krytox
Small tube will last a lifetime for your skateboards and concerns you brought up in your post.... Primary use in my profession is o-rings an high tempatures . Very good product .
This is link to product I use....
Hope it helps....
Krytox? Dupont Krytox??!! No question it must be good stuff. At $61 for a two-ounce tube I can’t afford to use it on Motorcycle chains but I do like to baby my handguns and of course I spoil my new 40-inch Gravity Mini-K Longboard skateboard that sports Gravity Blazer 70mm wheels.
Many thanks for the info.
“...3-in-1, Kroil, et al. are penetrating oils...”
What do you think of 3-in-1 for general use on firearms? ... bike chains, O-ring chains, and in situations where the oil may contact finished wood or plastics?
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