Replies

Yep Interarms .... But stainless.My PPK education continues. From 2002 to now, all are made under license by a small machining company, whether they're marked "Walther/Interarms" or "Walther/S&W". Stainless steel, being vey difficult to machine, resulted in lots of knife edges inside the frame. I'm using a diamond knife sharpener to knock off as many "knives" as I can reach. Normally, if you don't tear it down all the way, you wouldn't have to do it. However, if you take off the grips, which you will if you change hammer springs, at least break the edges where the parts, and your fingers, will go.

Nanolube reduces friction a lot, which has got to help trigger pull. The dual sears, conveniently fixed to the hammer, now operate easily, meaning you're not adding more pressure to the trigger to get them to move properly. Removal of the ejector, and the hammer pivot pin, is easy, and you can access every part, whether still in the frame or out, with your Nanolube. I have to admit, I've been using the 5W Nanolube a lot, because it gets into even smaller spaces. The good thing is a little goes a long way, because it seeps just about everywhere. It's how I got those sears working so easily in just a few minutes.

I broke the edges slightly on the bottom of the slide after discovering the tiniest of slide bites next day. Didn't even break the skin, just a series of tiny red dots in a line along the top of my hand. It was like a tiny rash, and went away in one day. No bleeding gash, this time.

With the slide stripped, I've been honing together the frame and slide by applying Nanolube, and work the two parts together. First I press both sides together to work-in. Then I pull them apart (while still on the rails) to get the other surface. I noticed quick a bit of new slickness after doing that. I also did the same procedure while pressing the two parts on the left, then the right. I'm not seeing much polishing, but where it occurs, the results are positive.

FYI, there was a massive recall of all PPKs made from 2002 to 2009. Unknown how many actually had the problem, but after reading a number of S&W PR pieces, I could tell they were tap-dancing around the details. Finally, one mentioned that a faulty weapon would fire when removing the safety. That told me they had random brittle safeties scattered throughout the product line. Drop the hammer, and safety drum cracks and lets the hammer continue forward to contact the firing pin. My guess is they replaced every single safety, rather than test to see if they met spec. So they required every PPK/PPKS made of stainless steel to be returned for the fix. Probably so they could document which handguns they laid hands on, and "cured".

This was a problem with military P38s made by slave labor. Just heat-treat a small batch of super-brittle safeties (that still might function for years), and slip one in every once in a while. If you have no docs that yours was fixed, a call to S&W will probably tell you whether your serial number was worked on, or even needed work.

Amazing little machine, and really gunsmith-friendly for something so tiny.