Vanity, Gun Cleaning (That's right, guns. FReepers come runnin'!)

July 26, 2009 | Owl_Eagle

[End Times Sentinel]

I was beginning to google around for the answer to this question, but then I thought "Who knows more about guns than my fellow FReepers?"

So, I have a Mossberg 500, and I figured today would be as good a day as any to clean it. Now, in the past I've used something called "Butch's Bore Shine" but I ran out last time and haven't remembered to pick any up. It's hotter than blazes outside and the skies could open up at any minute so I don't want to walk down to the gun store. Can I use WD40 instead? I haven't fired it since I last cleaned it, so I'm not real concerned about stuff like copper and carbon build up. I just don't want to do something I'll regret.

Thanks in advance,

Owl_Eagle

[Daffynition]

Hehe! I hold the patent on Hoppes #9 cologne .... little black dress, stilettos and a dab behind each ear ....bring 'em to their knees every time. '_P

[Kirkwood]

No, no, no. Unless you don’t value your gun.

[HiramQuick]

Ouch!

[JRandomFreeper]

I've taken a vow of celibacy and taken up a life of quiet contemplation. That's the ONLY reason I'm not baying at the moon like a mad dog right now. Hoppes #9 and stiletto heels. Does life get any better?

You go, girl!

/johnny

[vetvetdoug]

Go buy some Army surplus LSA oil and clean your weapon. One of the bore snakes will take care of the barrell. IMO good old soap and water and then a thorough oiling LSA/gun oil is the best way to clean a weapon of the buildup of gunpowder and bullet residue.

[lapsus calami]

 

 

WD-40?! No, no, no. It works well for what it is designed for, which is to penetrate and loosen up rust, helping to work seized up gizmos apart. It is not a cleaner nor a "resident" lubricant or rust protection - it has a carrier that evaporates away, leaving a non-proactive residue behind. I have run into more than one person over the years that have rotted their guns up with that stuff. For center-fire rifles and pistols using jacketed projectiles I use Sweet's 7.62 solvent, and it makes the copper flow out like blue paint, but it will be hard on bronze cleaning brushes unless you hose them off immediately with spray carb cleaner in a can or use plastic ones.. Otherwise, it's EEZOX, which is a CLP (clean, lube, protect) and works very well in that regard. For a protector (not a cleaner), synthetic "Sheath" oil by Birchwood-Casey is also very good - is a lot like if not the same chemical recipe as the synth oil sold by Herter's many years ago. Your success at cleaning depends a lot on your tools - must have good brushes that will make good contact with the bore and a nice supply of cotton patches, either cut up from old T-shirts or a pack you can get from a store that has them already pre-cut, ready to use. Then it is a matter of patience to stay at it until all the grunge is removed and gone.

 

 

[waterhill]

Simple Green works well with elbow grease. Dry thoroughly and oil well. Orange Oil is excellent for the furniture, just don’t use on synthetics...

[43north]

I use brake cleaner to get superficial crud off my guns. It cleans well, leaves no residue, and its cheap.

I was warned several years ago to avoid using WD-40 on firearms. Because of its properties it supposedly penetrates the primers and when you pull the trigger the gun goes “click” instead of “BOOM”.

I don’t know if this is true or not because, just in case, I have not used WD-40 on my firearms.

[Moltke]

WD-40 is the ‘cure-all’ that really excells at nothing. Get yourself some Ballistol. Tried and true.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ballistol

[dog breath]

I know that this might sound a little nuts, but in a pinch you can use olive oil as a lubricant. I use it on my black powder pistol and on some of my knives. Just wipe off all excess with a couple of clean patches.

[Eric in the Ozarks]

It's the patchouli from an earlier age...

[bobby.223]

same here. I fill up old spray bottles. I also soak my truck cab air freshener ‘scent trees’ in the stuff........ hoppes #9, best smell ever.

[GladesGuru]

“Simple Green works well with elbow grease”

DON”T USE THAT GOO ON ANYTHING MADE OF ALUMINUM ! ! ! !

Check the receiver of your Mossberg with a magnet, then “Listen To Ypur Magnet”.

Simple Green will attack aluminum and if left on will result in a form of intergranular corrosion which may render the part unsafe.

[Lurker]

Break Free CLP. Best stuff I've ever used.

For copper fouling I use Hoppes Copper Solvent.

But in my experience the Break Free cuts through everything but copper fouling.

[Daffynition]

Heh. I'm posting from a convent and have made vows too .... I'm actually a former Pointer Sister.

[JRandomFreeper]

No, seriously. I took a vow. I can't afford any more marriages. I'm through with buying houses for wimmen that hate me.

The simple life works better.

/johnny

[Daffynition]

I hear ya ...there's something to be said for the power of *one.*

[BorisTheBulletDodger]

WD-40 evaporates and leaves a residue that over time and repeated use, can build up. It is better than nothing but if you can wait, just buy some stuff designed to clean guns.

[Mr. K]

If you enjoy that kind of thing, I guess that’s OK

But it is certainly not necessary

Sorry, I don’t know about the WD40- but I wouldn’t try it untill I knew for certain.

Let us know if you find an answer to that.

WD-40 is a ‘penetrating’ oil - it might get into places you dont want it? (pure guess)

[Mr. K]

what about “Marvel Mystery Oil” for a lube before storage?