Posted on 09/05/2013 10:24:15 AM PDT by Victoria Bingham
https://www.facebook.com/victoria.bingham.14?hc_location=timeline
Check this out, I think you might find it helpful:
http://electrical.about.com/od/appliances/f/3-Wire-And-4-Wire-Dryer-Receptacles.htm
Ranges and ovens have different configurations, because they are often set up for even higher amp service than a dryer.
That matter could be dealt with by trading down the breaker for the circuit if you think it’s necessary.
The main point is to get two hot wires to the dryer, one neutral wire, and perhaps one ground wire as well. The ground wire, if connected through, would also connect to the metal frame of the dryer, otherwise the neutral wire does that.
Under no circumstances should a hot wire be allowed to substitute position for a ground or neutral wire. If you don’t know what you’re doing, it could be the last mistake you make.
I see what happened. They changed the standard configuration, and it now requires a ground lug. It would be best to change the cable to ground the appliance. They explain it in that link I posted just above....
Yes, the range draws a heckuvalot more current, and the differences are a lot more than just the plug, the home run has to be a much larger gauge wire than for the dryer run. Both are 220V, so be careful out there. I lived in a house that had a three phase service, that led to strange things in the wiring.
we need to install a new cord
So, thats what we gonna do
apparently this town requires the 4 prongs
Three-phase gets really weird when you talk about solar cell interfaces. Best to avoid them.
But even two-phase can be problematic. If you lose one phase of supplied power, the other phase can burn out motors which don't have circuit interruption. The way to protect the motor is to route its power through a contactor whose activation coils depend on each phase in turn. If any phase drops out, the contactor opens, protecting the motor.
Yup. And your appliances have to be gentle about getting low voltage, because the voltage between the legs is 207V. It’s been a long while since I had to mess with residential wiring, but that seems to be the case.
(I really hate it when a neutral breaks loose, but that a whole other deal...)
It’s not difficult to do, I promise.
LOL!
I suspected it was the starter when Mr. Bill was towed around the block and successfully started on the third leg...
And after learning about race cars, headers and starters in close proximity, I have been pricing starters all day, and have found they will cost, with core charge and without tax, a minimum of $120.
I don’t quite have enough left to get it and pay for the starter AND the labor, but payday is only three weeks away! I had to upgrade the AAA membership in order to have the vehicle towed to the mechanic, and the wiper blades were a necessity with the weather we’ve been having.
And then there are the incidentals, and ... well, shoot...I don’t quite have enough to make it all work. I also ordered the Haynes Manual, and that wasn’t as cheap as I wanted it to be!!
A rebuilt starter might be cheaper.
$120? Seems steep, but this is an old Geo, so it’s possible....
They were ALL rebuilt and the core charge was included in the prices I listed earlier.
(I used to be a gofer for a racecar driver, ya know...back when parts houses always wanted to know “what is the application?” All I needed was for them to sell me the part I asked for!)
I don’t even want to contemplate what a brand new part would cost. I certainly couldn’t afford it, for sure!
Thanks! The prices I listed were either online with free shipping, or online with store pickup. I don’t want to pay shipping if I don’t have to.
(My personal opinion is this: If someone offers something online, there is a built-in “demand” charge, so that whatever is ordered is over-priced. S&H is also over-priced, because it doesn’t cost the seller “that much” to ship something that is pretty much always in stock.)
In other words, no matter where I get it, the seller and the cartage company are both going to make money. Otherwise, why be in mail order/online business?
Correct. If you’re within 50 bucks, buy it from the guy who can hand it to you on the spot. It’s better on so many levels.
It’s a shame it’s not my old Honda. The starter was on the top of the engine. Checker Auto plus 30 bucks, I’m rolling again.
FYI: I have been living On The Edge for so long that I never buy ANY thing without comparing prices, no matter what.
Sales racks are my friends, and so are some really good food deals, like “buy 1 get 1 free” or “Buy One get Two Free!” These are the sales I really need to take advantage of but don’t often have the income to do so.
As a result, I am always asking, “How much...?”
For the most part, I live so close to the wire that springing for a hamburger meal (breakfast, lunch or dinner) at a fast food place is out of the question. That $3-$6 could be the difference between making a medical appointment or buying groceries to get me through the last week of the month.
Nothing I buy is frivolous. It takes a lot of thought and consideration. And I HATE living this way. It take all the fun and spontaneity out of life!
(No wonder I get depressed.)
You betcha! That's why they make 'phase protection' circuits. Very important thingies to have in NYC because Con Ed has a nasty habit of flipping phases if they do some work out on the street where your feed comes from. Since phase protection has not always been in the code, a lot of old stuff, of which a lot is AC motored, has no protection from this. So elevators go up instead of down and ventilation equipment sucks instead of blows..
Now a quiz question. In your normal house service, you have 240 ac (or 220, or 208) coming into the house. If you go from one leg of that 240 vac feed to ground (neutral - which in most places is grounded, but not always..) you get your nominal 120 vac house voltage. Here's the quiz question: What is the voltage to ground/neutral from one leg of a 480 vac three phase supply?
Bonus question: Assuming the wiring follows code, how can you tell whether you are looking at a nominal 240 three phase or a nominal 480 three phase feed without a meter or looking at the name tags.. (and no, not by grabbing one of the hot wires and grounding yourself..)
LOL!
I will ask Jesse about the engine components while I’m waiting for the Haynes Manual to get here...
I mean, if I’m going to pay him, I may as well pay him for HELPING ME UNDERSTAND!
277VAC. I'll take my Kewpie Doll.
If you’re talking color coeds, that’s easy. Red, Black vs Yellow, Brown. “Ground and Yeller kills a Feller.”
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