Posted on 06/06/2005 2:27:41 PM PDT by blam
Burma rebuilding risks Pagan jewel
By Andrew Harding
BBC News, Burma
Pagan's temples are one of Asia's most important cultural sites
The sunsets are still spectacular - a golden glow brushing the curves of 2,000 ancient temples and pagodas clustered on the edge of the Irrawaddy River in central Burma.
But today some of the world's leading experts have accused Burma's military regime of waging "archaeological blitzkrieg" against the legendary Buddhist treasures of Pagan.
"They're ruining it," said Richard Engelhardt, regional advisor for the UN's cultural arm, Unesco.
"It makes me feel hopeless and helpless and angry and disappointed," he said.
I went to survey the damage, posing as a tourist. Burma is one of the world's most repressive dictatorships and foreign journalists are not welcome.
"We are the richest archaeological site in Asia," said my guide proudly as we drove around the site in a horse-drawn carriage.
But almost everywhere I saw signs of the "false" and "misguided" restoration work which Unesco and other experts have so bitterly condemned.
These included:
Hundreds of brand new pagodas built with brick and concrete on top of ancient ruins A half-built "palace" being constructed from poured concrete at the heart of the site The widespread use of bathroom tiles, concrete and other unauthentic materials A 200ft (65m) observation tower and hotel complex under construction on the site "I'm horrified by the tower," said Mr Engelhardt, who is concerned that the isolated regime's hunger for tourist dollars is responsible for the changes.
"The archaeology destroyed during excavation for its foundations can never be recovered. The [Burmese] government is gussying up the site... commodifying it for mass tourism.
"But it's a loss for everyone. It's becoming less and less a real document of the glory of Pagan's past and more an un-understandable book of nonsense," he said.
Local impact
So what do the locals make of the building work?
Unesco has long wanted Pagan to have World Heritage status
Well, remember Burma is a military dictatorship.
"I cannot tell you," said one souvenir seller with a nervous glance around us, "there are spies everywhere."
"We all hate the tower," said another man. "But if we say the government is not very good, we get in trouble."
Although some locals have found work in the new hotels opening up - built with an eye on luring mass tourism from neighbouring China - many feel they are being pushed out by a regime anxious to monopolise all tourist revenues.
"All the businesses in town are owned by the military," said one man. "They want to stay on their throne forever."
For decades Unesco has sought to arrange World Heritage status for Pagan. But disagreements with the Burmese regime have blocked progress and prevented the UN funding programmes to help train local archaeologists to maintain the site.
"The generals have no room for other voices, for constructive criticism," Mr Engelhardt said.
"There really aren't the people in [Burma] with the skills to do the job right, to rescue the site. And to me that is the most frightening thing."
Jim, your 'neck of the woods.'
BTTT
Pagan is pronounced puhgun. I took a balloon ride over Pagan a long time ago. It was simply marvelous.
I am currently in the USA for a few months taking care of some business and I miss the hot humid (rotten) weather.
Sorry, unclear post. In Burma the Generals appoint the Sangha and it has little to do with Buddhist matters and much to do with keeping the generals in power. For instance, last year, they aggitated against Christians (most of whom are Karen). Strictly political.
Drop by, you'll feel at home. The humidity is 91% here presently, lol.
Sounds good!!!! :-)
Pagan is indeed an awsome place.
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the chinese have a large presence there.
Maybe a big earthquake can knock all the temples down and then they'd both lose.
(And yes the culture in pagan has no appeal or importance to me whatsoever. Cool architecture but buildings can be rebuilt)
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