given that, how does one choose a church; or does one even bother with church?
You find one that teaches the word of God, not the doctrines of men, and equips people to go out and make disciples as we are commanded.
Why go?
Because we are commanded to not forsake the assembling of ourselves together, not because we are threatened with hellfire if we don't go every Sunday.
We go for Christian fellowship, edification, teaching, preaching, worship, cause you want to be with fellow believers.
Church is good and helpful and we can flounder on our own, but it's not necessary by any means for salvation.
For my part, I suspect that the NT believers would not recognize what we do today as *church*. I don't think churches today bear much resemblance to how believers in the NT conducted themselves.