All Dolled Up -'Bare truth' Disturbing: Girls Fixated on Body Image

Editor's note: The following story contains subject matter and descriptions that might not be suitable for some readers. Discretion is advised.

Tell it to the wicked queen from "Snow White," who was neither the first nor the last female to find both her life's obsession and the key to her own ruin simply by looking in the mirror. A girl's driving need to be the fairest (prettiest, thinnest, youngest, blondest, best-dressed) is one of the oldest stories in the book, and we all know that for a few, the need can have deadly consequences.

But while photographer Lauren Greenfield hasn't uncovered some new phenomenon in her "Girl Culture" project -- a book, an educational Web site and an exhibit now on display at the Snite Museum of Art -- the images are startling nonetheless. Standing face to face with strippers, topless spring break revelers, fat camp inmates, anorexics, debutantes, cheerleaders, models, junior high clique queens and pint-size Britney Spears wannabes, one gets the sinking suspicion that a once relatively harmless fixation has become a full-blown, national psychosis whose victims just keep getting younger and more numerous.

"I really want to be a teenager. Now. Really fast," says Lily, 6, in one of the revealing interviews that accompany the photographs. "(Teenagers) dress up cool so boys like them. I saw it in a movie. They get dressed so fashionable, like a doll and stuff. They usually do this cool makeup, like lipstick. And a really blushy face. It's cool."

"In college," says Erin, 24, "I would go into the bathroom to purge, and someone would come out who just did, and (we would) look at each other and just know." Photographed by Greenfield at an eating-disorder clinic in Florida, Erin stands on the scale backward, not wanting to see how much she's gained -- but even the "blind weights" are a kind of torture: "I'm getting to where I can hear the clicks, and I'm afraid to hear that second click at a hundred. My total fear every morning is to hear it slide all the way over."

Greenfield's glossy, saturated color prints at first seem to emphasize the surface lives of these girls and women -- their various failures or successes at attaining the all-but-impossible feminine ideal -- but the interviews uncover worlds of hurt and anxiety (and in a few cases, hope) hiding just under the skin. And once the viewer gets there, even the photographs unaccompanied by text begin to speak volumes.

"Teens are not surprised at all by what's in the book," Greenfield, talking by phone from her studio in Venice, Calif., said. The artist said she's received hundreds of e-mails in response to "Girl Culture," many from girls and young women thanking Greenfield for shedding light on so many wrenching, formerly hidden rites of passage.

"Mothers, women of another generation, are often more surprised and disappointed by the photographs, and kind of shocked," Greenfield added. "They ask, 'Where are the smart girls?' It looks more one-sided to them. Of course, it's not meant to be the full picture of girls growing up today."

True, we see more cheerleaders here than valedictorians, but anyone who thinks the mostly maladjusted girls of "Girl Culture" represent some fringe minority is in denial.

"She makes the point that the extreme is becoming the norm -- that these patterns of behavior are becoming more and more common, and it starts at an earlier age than we think," commented Steve Moriarty, photography curator of the Snite. He pointed to a pair of images hanging side by side: On the left, a willowy lingerie model stands on a beach in mesh bikini panties and a matching bra she's just unhooked at the chest. On the right, three little girls in sequins and ballet outfits primp around a table littered with makeup. Calli, 5, stares probingly into a silver hand mirror held by her friend. It looks like the beginning of a lifelong, love-hate relationship.

Mirrors are everywhere in this series, from the basic bathroom vanity to the reflective sunroof of the Ford Explorer limo whisking the "damas" (maids of honor) to a lavish "quinceañera" ("sweet 15" party). And there are figurative mirrors as well: between a mother and her pre-adolescent daughter -- both doing everything they can to look 19 years old -- at an upscale beach resort; in the eyes of three admiring workmen, scoping out a model named Sara on a New York City sidewalk; and in every image where the female viewer might see traces of herself.

"One guy said, 'I felt really nauseous going through the show. I was thinking about all the terrible things I did to girls in high school,'" said Greenfield, recalling the first showing of "Girl Culture" at the Center for Creative Photography at the University of Arizona last fall.

The men and boys we do see here -- bare-chested hardbodies on spring break hoisting an agile woman into an inverted fellatio pose; tattooed bikers ogling a woman's exposed breast, and only her breast, in another beach crowd -- make a sorry display, but again, Greenfield doesn't intend to reflect maleness in all its complexity. Rather, the images challenge us to consider how "girl culture," as Greenfield defines it, couldn't possibly exist without the willing participation of everyone involved.

"One of the things I looked at is how girls are complicit in this process," the photographer explained, adding that back in her own student days at a progressive school, she was taught to blame the male-dominated media, the exploitative fashion industry and so on. Now, she believes there are more complicated forces at work.

Greenfield also captures ironic intersections of what Trudy Wilner Stack, the traveling show's curator, calls "the girlish (ribbons and bows) and the girlie (g-strings and pasties)" realms: a condom blown up into a toy balloon; a "fetus bingo" game at a high school for teen mothers (we see one player's chipped blue nail polish); the shot of Lily, just 5 at the time, browsing with pursed lips through a rack of belly tops at the same Los Angeles boutique that outfits Spears. Lily's outfit -- a fuzzy white bra top and matching shorts, with fuchsia silk flowers at the chest, tucked into her big hair and onto the vamps of her chic slides -- is more shocking than even the skimpiest showgirl getups Greenfield documents in Las Vegas. One can't help wondering, Where is this child's mother?

While parents and other supposedly influential figures are mostly absent from these images, their permissiveness and even complicity in the beauty industry's reign of terror over their daughters -- after all, someone's got to be paying for all these clothes, cosmetics and summers at fat camp -- lurk just outside the frame. Ultimately, "Girl Culture" serves as one big mirror in which we as an American culture must confront this perverse sequel to decades of supposed progress in gender equality.

Early on, though, Greenfield had no idea the photographs she was making -- often in very intimate, private settings -- would end up telling such a big, public story.

"This really grew out of the last book I did, 'Fast Forward,' which was about kids growing up in L.A., how they grow up so quickly, and specifically looking at the culture of materialism," she said. "I just started to get interested in girls and how they acted within the material culture."

She continued the investigation while on assignment for other, short-term projects, chiefly for The New York Times Magazine. Gradually, over about five years, the big picture became clear.

"She has a good antenna, and good instincts for what's going on in a culture at a particular time," Moriarty observed. "We may take a little flack" from conservative voices on campus, the curator added, for the sheer flesh factor of this show and its exposure of social problems some might like to believe have no home at Notre Dame. "I hope people see themselves in these."

Discomfort lurks beneath the winsome smiles in this image from "Girl Culture," captured at the Fitness America competition in Redondo Beach, Calif. Photographer Lauren Greenfield visits the Snite Museum of Art today to discuss the controversial show. Photos provided/LAUREN GREENFIELD

"I want to be a topless dancer or a showgirl," says Sheena, 15, shown here with her friend Amber in a department store fitting room in San Jose, Calif. Many of Lauren Greenfield's "Girl Culture" subjects are photographed looking (usually unhappily) at mirrors, although in this case the mirror is just out of frame.

In "Girl Culture," Lauren Greenfield documents the many "body projects" -- such as the fresh pedicure of Nikki, an aspiring Hollywood actress, displayed here in Gucci shoes -- that take up so much of American females' time, attention and disposable cash. Photo provided/LAUREN GREENFIELD

'Lauren Greenfield: Girl Culture' Through March 9 at the Snite Museum of Art, on the campus of the University of Notre Dame. An opening reception will be from 2 to 4 p.m. today, with a lecture by Greenfield at 3 p.m.

Also on display: "Contemporary Impressions: Art by Native American Artists" and "Notre Dame Architecture Student Drawings: Designs for a New Snite Museum." Regular gallery hours are from 1 to 5 p.m. Sunday, 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. Tuesday and Wednesday, 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Thursday through Saturday.

In addition, photographs from Greenfield's last book, "Fast Forward," will be on display through March 23 at the Brauer Museum of Art, on the campus of Valparaiso University. Call (219) 464-5365 for more information.

It is plausible that small groups of people have been able to limit the choices of larger groups regarding clothing. Recently there were some newspaper stories on children's fashion. Parents have been complaining that they have a hard time actually finding clothing for their kids that are relatively modest. The stores have much more stock and selection in the "teen-age tart" styles.

I don't mean to sound argumentative but it seems that you feel that being underweight is less dangerous, but it can cause just as many serious health risks as being overweight.

Thanks for the note. We may have more agreement than you think -- I don't know.

I'd say that the health risks of being seriously underweight for an individual are as bad (or worse) than being seriously overweight. That's the point you're making - right? And I totally agree with that.

But when I look around I see a hundred people who seem to have a problem with being way overweight for every one who looks serioulsy underweight. Therefore, I conclude that both conditions are serious public health problems, but the problem of being way overweight is far more common -- and therefore I'd probably say obesity is much more serious from a public health standpoint. Am I wrong?

Could I ask what phenomenon is "dangerous"?

Girls (up through adults) are increasingly obsessed with their looks and achieving the "perfect" body in particular. I can't cite any particular study that would define this trend. I'm just extrapolating from my own observations. But a good indicator of the extent of this problem might be a rise in the cases of anorexia among teenage girls.

Why is this a problem? There are many reasons, both positive and negative. Positively, poor body image can result in pathological behavior among girls and young women and, along with the impossible expectations of young men, also makes it more difficult to achieve healthy long term relationships, i.e. healthy marriages. In our culture, women are increasingly measured by the sum of their body parts, not the content of their character.

Secondly, this "cult of the body" is an enormous waste of time and talent. Young women simply waste an enormous amount of energy and resources in a hopeless pursuit of bodily perfection. This vice used to be known as vanity. Which wife is of more value, a plain, virtuous wife or vain, pretty wife? Which will contribute more to society? The classic example is the amount of ink spilled over the deaths of Mother Theresa versus Lady Diana in the media.

According to my wife, much of fashion is women trying to impress other women, rather than look attractive to men.

Yeah, I've heard this, and I think we've had at least one woman make the same comment here (above).

Women have this amazing talent for giving each other grief -- makes me glad I'm a guy.

But a good indicator of the extent of this problem might be a rise in the cases of anorexia among teenage girls.

If I read your post right, you're making a similar point to the author of this piece, and it's a point that's also been made (over and over) in other articles. The point seems to be that "society" is putting too much emphasis on keeping thin.

I'm just not sure I agree with the thrust of this argument -- my perceptions are pretty much the opposite.

It seems to me I see far more people making themselves sick and unhappy from being way overweight, compared with the numbers who make themselves sick and unhappy through excessive weight loss.

Seems to me that "society" isn't doing enough to get out messages to young people about the importance and benefits of keeping their weight under control.

Let me know what you think.

It strikes me that modern popular culture has put a premium on youth ever since motion pictures, and accelerated a good deal since the advent of television, possibly due to the dynamic nature of these media in emphasizing physical activity. Just a thought and I throw it out for comment - that's what FR's for, after all.

Visual images are more powerful than the written word. I agree with your point.

I think it is pernicious to be telling adolescents "this is the prime time of your lives, don't miss it - you'll be miserable when you're old." To be honest, I can't think of a single aspect of life that isn't better for me at 50 than at 16

I agree. I was depressed and confused at 16 and I thought, "these are the best years of my life?!" Life is immeasurably better at 40.

I think that standing at the check-out line is a visual assault to the senses. I have talked to a number of women who said that when they were holding their firstborn child at the grocery store, nothing made them more depressed than looking at the front page magazine photos of all the young skinny models. They said it made them feel fat and somewhat insecure.

I would imagine that those models are having the very same result on young teens.

I'll vote for the downward slope.

I won't. In centuries past women used to bind thier feet for beauty, file down thier teeth to make them more white, and purposely infect themselves with tapeworms in order to stay thin. The world has always had its problems and right now is no different than before.

"This really grew out of the last book I did, 'Fast Forward,' which was about kids growing up in L.A., how they grow up so quickly, and specifically looking at the culture of materialism," she said."

Except that children aren't really maturing (mentally) faster, they are simply becoming more material oriented, as well as learning to be more agressive and cycnical and manipulative in their attempts to obtain said materialism.

For instance, a mature child does not "purge" her supper in order to try to keep her skinny figure looking slim-enough to attract the most superficial boys, but a cynical, manipulative, materialistic child will so do.

In Genesis, we are told that Cain slew Able. What we aren't told (because today's clergy are all hopelessly uneducated in the classics as well as superficial and materialist themselves) is that "Cain" is Yiddish/ancient Hebrew for "spear", while "Able" means "vanity" in that dialect.

Thus, recorded human history essential began around the time when humans finally slew the vanity that lives amongst us, a battle that we are still fighting to this very day.

I wonder if the depression resulting from obesity isn't another symptom of societal pressure though. Not all people's bodies are the same. There are people who are "fat" by society's subjective standards, who are actually fit in a cardio-vascular sense and quite healthy and will live to a ripe old age.

I think the point of the body-image thing is not really a "health" point, which is why your harping on that theme is sort of extra-topical. I think the reason why this article seems like a serious topic to conservatives is that it is that so many, women in particular, but also men, derive their sense of self-worth/ lack of self-worth, and also the worth of their peers, from their appearance and their peers' appearance. To determine social status on something so basic is a sign of a very shallow culture, and one that has lost some of the ideals which created western civilisation.

I don't think bodily obsession is a good trend, but with American females reaching all-time record levels of obesity, something rings hollow here. I think this article is more an example of the modern American female's obsession with self-pity.

Well, not all women are obsessed with self-pity (especially Freeper women), but a lot of women (and men) are.

And they prefer to read stories that say "society is oppressing you." That's more fun than a story which tells the truth, which is "you'd be happier and healthier if you'd eat less and exercise -- take more responsibility for yourself."

But when I look around I see a hundred people who seem to have a problem with being way overweight for every one who looks serioulsy underweight.

We probably do agree. There are far more people in this world that suffer from obesity than severe Anorexia, but more people suffer from eating disorders than it seems just by looking at people. In fact most bulimics maintain an average appropriate weight but what they do to their bodies by binging and purging causes damage that can't be seen by the naked eye. True that you see very few people walking around the street that are emancipated but what you don't see are the 1000's of people that are only 5-10lbs underweight that are engaging in the same distuctive behaviors that the person who is 5'6' and 95lbs. I agree though that both are very serious problems.

Speaking toward general society, I just wish people would stop making it sound as if you are a thin person then you are healthy and fit. You look the "perfect image" that this culture has created. If you are fat you have a health problem and need help. Both positions need help, it's just that society views thin as beautiful so how can beautiful be unhealthy. Just remember that anorexia and bulimia and even compulsive eating more often than not can not be seen in passing (especially in the beginning) and you see most people with clothes on, and a baggy sweatshirt can cover a lot. One thing that anorexics are masters at is hiding their body.

You make a lot of good points. Maybe my hundred-to-one comment is an exaggeration.

I just think it's really strange that lots of articles about women and their images of their body (like the article above) often say that society puts too much emphasis on being thin. 'Cause I look around and see way too many people who seem to be quite overweight (it's much worse among poorer people and in rural areas). So I'm thinking maybe "society" doesn't put enough emphasis on the benefits of keeping weight down into a good, healthy range.

As opposed to my 6 year-old daughter, who 'gallops' around the house in her panties pretending she's a horse, Bambi, or one of our dogs.....who will dress up in sweatpants, a leotard (over the sweats), her pink cowboy hat, and a backpack, and then want to go to town....who deliberately eats onions and garlic just so she can chase her older brothers around the house to *breathe* heavily on them.....has no clue who Britney Spears is.....and makes up her own vocabulary of words like "beanstrapper" and "poopsnotter" when she can't think of anything else.

In other words, she's totally innocent of pop culture, she does her own thing, and she's a lunatic. Oh, and she doesn't go to school, thank God, where all of this would be shamed out of her for being different.

I just think it's really strange that lots of articles about women and their images of their body (like the article above) often say that society puts too much emphasis on being thin.

It is not just articles that put the pressure on. Just look at post#69, I know this was meant as light hearted in this case but it is images like this that are through out the media an a daily basis that make women want to achieve something that is unrealistic. Yes we should emphasize keeping weight to a healthy level not over or under but I think the first step needs to be that we change society's idea of the ideal weight. To often are pictures of these airbrushed women thrown out to the public as being "perfect" and something to aspire to. It is sad.

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