Operation Infinite FReep: How to make a Quality FReeping rally sign.

10-15-02 | Trteamer

[Trteamer]

In order to Support Our Troops for the Long Haul, we have to have signs that can stand up to the abuse and the elements. I will detail the easy process I use to make signs that are strong enough to use for years to come. An added bonus is that they are real easy to change or repair. The very first step in the process is to call up your lumberjack buddy, cut down a nice big Colorado Blue Spruce......

[Trteamer]

Just kidding about the Blue Spruce, I said that to get back at the Greenies which stole my signs at our rally 2 weeks ago. Since I had to make new ones, I figured I would share with all of you this super way to put together rally signs:

First you get some poster board, I prefer NEON. Cut a piece of stout cardboard smaller than the poster board. I leave about and inch all the way around.

I make my sign poles out of 1 1/4 inch thick pine, it's light and strong

Set the saw up at 1 1/4 inch to cut square poles

And cut em.

The next step is to set the saw blade at 1/2 the distance to the fence. You are cutting a slot in one end of the pole to slide the cardboard down into. I make the slot,(or saw kerf),about a foot long to hold the cardboard real good.

Round over all the edges of the poles on a router table

The next thing you do is drill two small holes in the slotted end and start some screws,(these screws go through the cardboard and anchor the whole thing together).

Slide in your sheet of cardboard, sink the screws through it into the wood on the other side of the slot, and your sign frame is ready for years of FReeping!

These instructions are for "DOUBLE SIDED SIGNS", more bang for your buck, twice the impact. Make two signs on posterboard, place the sign frame between them and staple all around the edges.

Total elasped time for 5 sign frames: 40 minutes.

The signs are light and STOUT. Hold on to them tight in high winds or they will take you for a ride!!

Done, Finished, FReep ON!!!

[hole_n_one]

Total elasped time for 5 sign frames: 40 minutes.

Good job!

I would have to add a couple of hours to the total elpased time to cover the period spent at the emergency room getting stitches and appendages reattached.

[Trteamer]

Remember to wear your safety glasses and read all instructions and safety warnings before using power tools:)

[wallcrawlr]

I saw you used pine...I prefer maple as it makes a sweeter sound when I make contact

[VRW Conspirator]

Activism Bump. This is a keeper.

[jdege]

I just asked for some stirrer sticks down at the paint store, and glued them to foam-core.

[strela]

One minor proviso to your excellent instructions: There are some locales that do not allow the use of solid wood and/or metal for the handles of picket signs (I guess they're afraid somebody's going to have a Barry Bonds flashback). If you live in such an area, you can use PVC tubing or stiff cardboard tubing (like the stuff used by radio shops to store CB antennas). If those aren't available, use foamboard in long 6-inch wide strips. Simply glue or epoxy several of these together to make a solid handle, then attach it to your sign. Don't skimp on the exoxy either; foamboard is not very substantial and you need all the stiffening help you can get if this is your only option.

On the subject of solid wood handles, if you use it for your signs, be sure to wrap the handle with some athletic tape or even duct tape. Your hands will thank you for it, and you won't be picking splinters out of your hands post-Freep.

At our Sore Loserman Freep in Ft. Worth, I brought a battery-powered bullhorn for that extra "push" when my voice started to go. The one I brought had a loud siren on it, which also helped to attract attention. The batteries lasted about as long as I did (about 3 hours). Badjoe can tell you how effective they can be.