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French attack British sauce for fried Mars
The Times (UK) | 02/24/2000 | Adam Sage

Posted on 01/17/2002 7:01:57 AM PST by dighton

THE popularity of a Parisian restaurant at which a Scottish chef introduced deep-fried chocolate bars with a dash of cinnamon has outraged French purists.

Ross Kendall, who joined Le Chipper when it opened last year, added the Glaswegian dish along with chocolate-filled ravioli and chicken in Seven-Up. The menu became the subject of debate after the food critic Vincent Noce, of the left-wing daily Libération, concluded that the Fr15 (£1.40) deep-fried Mars Bars were "not bad at all". The newspaper has been inundated by readers angry at an apparent insult to Gallic gastronomy.

Philippe Tesson, a right-wing editorialist, has been particularly virulent. Marie-Ange Renaud, patronne of Le Petit Bonheur, a traditional restaurant next to Le Chipper, said: "I tried one of their deep-fried Mars Bars and found it disgusting. That sort of thing will never work in France." But on Tuesday evening Le Petit Bonheur was empty while Le Chipper buzzed. Ben Naylor, 27, an Australian chef who took over from Mr Kendall, plunged a cold Mars Bar into thick batter and then into oil. The British waitress, Astrid O'Brien, 22, added a dash of whipped cream and strawberry coulis.

"Great," said Liam Connolly, an Irish customer. "I'm not sure it's better than sex but it's certainly good."

The argument is unlikely to go quiet. This week, Libération added fuel to the fire when it printed another recipe - ham roasted in cola, sugar, mustard and breadcrumbs.

The newspaper said that the dish had been discovered by an academic claiming to see a synthesis between French and American cooking. Lurking behind this is an earnest debate on whether France should sit back on a glorious past symbolised by pot-au-feu and crème caramel, or seek modern and foreign inspiration.

Copyright 2000 Times Newspapers Ltd.


TOPICS: Culture/Society; News/Current Events
KEYWORDS:

1 posted on 01/17/2002 7:01:58 AM PST by dighton
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To: dighton
Let them eat cake.
2 posted on 01/17/2002 7:15:44 AM PST by Technocrat
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To: dighton
Sacre bleu!! Only the French would get worked up over such a thing. Actually, a nice pork shank roasted with Coca-Cola is delicious. There was even a recipe for it in Cook's Magazine. Quite tasty. A popular Southern dish, I believe.

bulldawg

3 posted on 01/17/2002 7:17:59 AM PST by bulldawg
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To: dighton
Messier and messier

Jan 10th 2002 From The Economist print edition

Seducing Hollywood still seems to mean enraging the French film industry

IT WAS a throwaway line, born of impatience and intended for American ears. Little did Jean-Marie Messier, head of a French media giant, Vivendi Universal, and currently the best-known French businessman in America, realise what he was stirring up last month when he declared that “the Franco-French cultural exception is dead”—in plain American, that French culture is (a) very special and (b) entitled to special protection. But unwittingly he has reignited a fierce debate in France—and also exposed the delicacy of French commercial expansion in the cultural field.

Mr Messier's proclamation was made at a New York press conference where he had gone to celebrate his purchase of yet another chunk of the American media. Having already swallowed Universal Studios, this time he had snapped up the entertainment assets of USA Networks, and put a Hollywood veteran in charge of the lot. Given that Vivendi also owns Canal Plus, which finances much of the French film industry, did this not herald the “Americanisation of French cinema?” asked a French journalist. Caught off-guard, Mr Messier snapped back, calling the question itself “archaic”.

He should have known better. The outpouring of French indignation, which began instantly, has not let up. “Culture is not a tradable good,” opined Jérôme Clément, head of Arte France, a television company, in the pages of Le Monde: “It is a precious good, our soul.” “Go and learn their gospel, that of a sacred dominant cultural exception, the American one,” snorted Michel Thoulouze, a former executive at Canal Plus. French state support for its music and film, the very notion that French culture was special, was in peril. Politicians from left and right rushed in.

The oddity is that the row comes at a time when French films, many of them more accessible than the art-house product that English-speakers tend to imagine are the French studios' only output, are standing their ground against the perceived invasion from Hollywood. In 2001, when the total number of cinema admissions in France was up 11% on the previous year, over two-fifths of those tickets were for French films, up from 29% in 2000, and the highest proportion for 16 years. Four of last year's top five box-office successes were French, led by a quirky romantic comedy, “Amélie”.

Indeed, it was precisely this resurgence of national culture, argued Mr Messier in Le Figaro on January 4th, that Vivendi has supported. His original remarks, he wrote, had been grossly distorted. Though his tone might have been “a bit sharp”, he admitted, what he had meant was that he was in favour of “cultural diversity”. And of course he approved of state subsidy to ensure it: “Vivendi Universal is not the ministry of culture,” he said.

However Mr Messier tries to spin it, this will not be the last time he lands himself in trouble with the guardians of French culture and cultural protectionism. For he is a peculiarly potent new symbol of an ancient cultural battle. Reared in the most traditional of French institutions, including both the Ecole Polytechnique and the Ecole Nationale d'Administration, he has in recent years transformed a one-time sewerage and water-supply firm founded in 1853, the Compagnie Générale des Eaux, into a glamorous Hollywood outfit. He has also bought a swanky apartment on New York's Park Avenue, and moved there with his family. For the purposes of running his burgeoning company, this is straightforward and logical. In the context of French cultural sensitivities, it is bound to look like betrayal.

4 posted on 01/17/2002 7:22:57 AM PST by lds23
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To: Dubyaismypresident; xsmommy; hobbes1; cholerajoe; seadragon; truthshallsetyoufree...
Deep Fried Chocolate??
5 posted on 01/17/2002 7:25:29 AM PST by RikaStrom
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To: dighton
"How to Cook for Forty Humans"
6 posted on 01/17/2002 7:31:24 AM PST by aomagrat
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To: dighton
I would love to see a deep fried peanut butter cup in the shape of Mickey Mouse to get the French all worked up.

I firmly believe that no other country in Europe deserves Euro-Disney more than France.

7 posted on 01/17/2002 7:31:25 AM PST by 2right
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To: RikaStrom
Deep Fried Chocolate??

Never heard of frying chocolate, but I have had deep fried ice cream a few times. I think they scoop it into balls and re-freeze it. Then they dip it in tempura batter and deep fry it real quick. Then hit it with cinnamon, melted chocolate and whipped cream. Mmmm.

8 posted on 01/17/2002 7:34:44 AM PST by thatsnotnice
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To: RikaStrom
Deep Fried Chocolate??

How to make the bad-for-you even worse.

9 posted on 01/17/2002 7:37:44 AM PST by NeoCaveman
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To: RikaStrom; xsmommy; dubyaismypresident; hobbes1; one_particular_harbour
Of course as a son of the south, I will eat just about anything if it's deep fried. Fried okra, fried dill pickles, fried turkey, fried corn, etc.
10 posted on 01/17/2002 7:42:28 AM PST by CholeraJoe
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To: thatsnotnice
Maybe some of you remember seeing this in the news a year or two ago:

UUMMMM CHOCOLATE COVERED LARD.

A Ukrainian candy company has begun marketing what may be the stickiest, richest and most fattening treat on the market: pure pork fat covered in chocolate. Cracking open a finger-sized stick of ''Fat in Chocolate'' reveals exactly that: a vein of white fat. The dark chocolate product pokes fun at the traditional Ukrainian snack of salo, or salted pork fat, usually consumed with vodka and pickles.

11 posted on 01/17/2002 8:03:50 AM PST by Hudley
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To: dighton
I've eaten deep fried Mars bars in Glasgow.... Delicious!

They batter them, deep fry them and you can get them with chips (french fries) and salt.

There is nothing better to get rid of a shameless scottish ale and whiskey hangover than a big bottle of Irn-Bru and a deep-fried Mars bar.

It's a dietary Chernobyl!

12 posted on 01/17/2002 8:08:58 AM PST by Cogadh na Sith
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To: dighton
A fried Mars Bar, a Jerry Lewis movie, and thou!
13 posted on 01/17/2002 8:16:16 AM PST by TruthShallSetYouFree
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To: dighton
Good article! They used too many French words though.

Notice the Irish guy got it right!

14 posted on 01/17/2002 8:23:01 AM PST by grumpster-dumpster
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To: dighton
The newspaper said that the dish had been discovered by an academic claiming to see a synthesis between French and American cooking.

I'm thinking barbecued-snail-on-a-bun here. Touch of mustard and a beer back. Yum!

You can take this "synthesis" thing too far. I once had squid-on-a-stick at a baseball game in Japan...because the hot dogs were grey. That's because the latter were made of fish parts...

15 posted on 01/17/2002 8:25:09 AM PST by Billthedrill
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To: dighton
Warning:

Keep in mind that American Mars Bars and British Mars Bars are not the same!

16 posted on 05/12/2002 10:04:53 AM PDT by Born to Conserve
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To: dighton
I did some research for you all:

http://totl.net/VisibleMars/

Note the links to cross sectiona of the American and British versions of the bars.

17 posted on 05/12/2002 10:10:37 AM PDT by Born to Conserve
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To: Born to Conserve; aculeus; Orual
Thanks.

Here's a bump for advanced research.

18 posted on 05/12/2002 10:22:19 AM PDT by dighton
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