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That tree has a certain amount of CO2. It releases slow or it releases fast. Nonetheless, you can’t exceed the value that’s in it when it dies.

The approved stove doesn’t change that equation, and the approved stove actually isn’t as usable. It requires a standard water content that can be achieved only with thoroughly dried and seasoned wood. That standard of wood is an unnecessary burden on those who burn wood. Thoroughly dried wood burns hotter and with less smoke, but the time (or money) required to have it is counter-productive for those who work for a living.

Great points... I have a masonry heater in my house, and I toss in all sorts of stuff that probably wouldn’t burn well in an “approved” stove. It burns hot, and it burns down to nothing but fine white ash.

Thoroughly dried wood burns hotter and with less smoke, but the time (or money) required to have it is counter-productive for those who work for a living.

. This will clean that smoke right up!!! And it's EPA approved!!!

Thoroughly dried wood burns hotter and with less smoke, but the time (or money) required to have it is counter-productive for those who work for a living.

Burning, uncured, green wood in a wood store or brick fireplace creates a layer of cresote that, if left unremoved, can catch fire within the flue and burn your house down.

It takes no more effort to cut and burn dried wood but you do have to the work ahead of time(we cut our own off our farm woods) and do it at the end of summer, beginning of fall.

We have several cords laid up in our woodshedfcor the winter. Beginners can use a good tarp if not prepared for cost of building a proper shed, just keep if it out of the weather.

Buying wood takes time too, if you wait til the snow starts flying, you will pay preium prices(from people like us) who did the work ahead of time

We use a mix of dried wood with a stick or two of relatively green at nighttime to keep the fire going til morning .

And we always have the flues professional cleaned befory burning season begins...