Yes, that is the one.
I'll keep an eye out for it. I'm surprised I don't have it bookmarked, but it was a good read. Here is a similar story that was posted around the same time:
http://www.salon.com/people/feature/2002/02/07/cuba_milk/index.html
I didn't reread it yet, but I think it's kind of disgusting. My memory is that the author basically says, "My eyes were opened to how bad it is for the average Cuban, but it sure is fun for the tourists! As long as I don't have to see the bad side, I'm going back!"