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DIET: Don't laugh, but rabbits are scarce; producers can't ship bunny meat fast enough
West Virginia Gazette ^ | August 7, 2005 | J.M. HIRSCH

Posted on 08/07/2005 5:57:53 PM PDT by BulletBobCo

WEST HAVEN, Vt. (AP) -- Talk about culinary irony -- rabbit meat is in short supply.

Despite the critters' proclivity to reproduce, demand for rabbit meat has surged in recent years and breeders are struggling to supply the many trendy restaurants adding it to their menus.

"We could easily be doing 1,000 a week. The demand is there,'' says Langis Anctil, whose Champlain Valley Rabbitry farm in West Haven, Vt., is working full tilt to raise that many bunnies a month.

Of course, it's not that rabbits don't reproduce fast enough -- it's just an 11-week cycle from birth to broiler. The problem is that there aren't enough producers.

It's just a $10 million industry -- stitched mostly from a patchwork of small farms and hobbyists -- so small the government barely tracks it.

For restaurants such as Minibar, a posh tapas-style eatery in Los Angeles that offered a popular rabbit sausage since opening nearly two years ago, this has meant serious supply problems.

"We would find a purveyor with the product at the right price, but then they'd run out and we'd find another and then they would run out, and that's what it's been like for about eight months,'' says owner Ravel Centeno-Rodrigues.

"Finally, we took it off the menu.''

The number of producers has been in a steady decline since rabbit's heyday about 60 years ago. That's when a wartime meat shortage led the federal government to urge people to switch to rabbit, making it a common offering in grocers' meat cases. But as the supply of red meat and chicken improved, rabbit fell from favor.

Rabbit meat industry insiders blame its decline for so many years on an undeserved bad rap. Though farm-raised rabbit tastes like -- surprise! -- tender chicken, it has a reputation as a tough and gamey meat (likely because wild rabbit generally is).

The Easter Bunny syndrome -- a reluctance by many Americans to eat animals that are cute and fuzzy -- hasn't helped, either, according to Pat Lamar, president of the Professional Rabbit Meat Association.

But it seems the bad reputation is fading and fuzzy is becoming fabulous. Today, rabbit is in restaurants from Los Angeles to Portland, Maine.

In 2004, the United States imported more than 1 million pounds of rabbit meat -- mostly from China -- a near doubling from the year before, according to the U.S. Department of Agriculture.

Much of that is ending up in specialty shops and restaurants, which have begun serving rabbit in everything from North African tagines and mixed grill to smoked sausages and salads.

"Rabbit probably at one point was more risque than offal (innards),'' says Shea Gallante, chef at Cru, an upscale Mediterranean restaurant in New York that offers rabbit sausage with gnocchi.

"Nowadays it's so common people think, 'Do I have the rabbit appetizer or do I have the calf's heart?'''

Kate Krader, a senior editor at Food & Wine magazine, sees rabbit on menus everywhere and attributes the renewed interest to the growth in bistro-style restaurants, which focus on rustic fare, including wild game.

What's impressive about the growth is that unlike beef and pork, there is no marketing effort behind it, she said.

Part of the appeal is health. Rabbit is low in fat and cholesterol and high in protein. Americans also are traveling more widely and encountering rabbit on European menus, especially in France and Italy. And American chefs are ever on the watch for new tastes and textures.

As rabbit becomes more common in U.S. restaurants, Krader thinks it's likely to show up in more grocers, many of which already offer such exotics as ostrich and buffalo meat.

Rabbit now is common in specialty food shops in large cities, and is creeping into mainstream grocers. Publix supermarkets offers rabbit at 250 of its 800 stores in the Southeast.

The meat has not fared as well in the grocers in the Northeast, however, where poor sales recently prompted Hannaford Bros. Co. to pull it from the shelves of its 146 stores after five months.

Such setbacks haven't slowed the industry much. At Pel-Freez, the nation's largest rabbit meat processor, work once slowed to part time much of the year. Now it is all the Rogers, Ark., company can do to keep pace.

The hodgepodge nature of the industry complicates that. Because so many rabbit breeders are small-time farmers who go in and out of the business, companies such as Pel-Freez must constantly look for new suppliers.

It also isn't easy on the breeding end. Rabbits can have high mortality rates and a dearth of processors means many breeders must rely on so-called bunny runners to transport the animals to slaughter, sometimes many states away.

Anctil gets around that by processing his own rabbits -- snapping their necks, skinning and gutting them. Despite a steady stream of chefs and culinary students visiting his remote farm, he seems surprised by his success.

He only regrets that he can't keep the rabbits on his farm a bit longer, fattening them up a bit more. He slaughters them when they reach 23/4 or 3 pounds. The market just won't wait longer.

"They move so fast we don't have time to get them bigger,'' he says.


TOPICS: Business/Economy; Miscellaneous
KEYWORDS: eatyourownbunny; killthewabbit; littlerabbitfoofoo; tasteslikechicken
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To: PeterPrinciple
Worked in a butcher shop on Fridays and Saturdays while in college and state law (Fla.) at that time required one rear foot remain on the rabbits carcass to identify it as not being a kitty cat.
61 posted on 08/07/2005 7:27:15 PM PDT by BTCM
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To: radiohead
Snuffalufagus looks a lot like my late bunny, Bailey.

Bailey

62 posted on 08/07/2005 7:30:25 PM PDT by Prime Choice (Thanks to the Leftists, yesterday's deviants are today's "alternate lifestyles.")
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To: ApplegateRanch
First it was cats & dogs. Then baby duckies. Then rabbits. Little Lambies will be next.

The minute they tell me I can't eat beaver, I'm gonna riot.

63 posted on 08/07/2005 7:32:21 PM PDT by Prime Choice (Thanks to the Leftists, yesterday's deviants are today's "alternate lifestyles.")
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To: BulletBobCo
"Arden Rabbit Meat"

Bon appetit

64 posted on 08/07/2005 7:34:05 PM PDT by harpu
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To: carlr
My grandfather used to raise about 8 or 9 rabbits twice or three times per year. He kept a buck and doe. When the little ones were 2 weeks old they were removed from their mother and begun on rabbit food. If you leave the babies where the buck can get to them, the will kill them and eat them. Anyway, my grandfather loved those rabbits. He would pet them and sit in a lawn chair and pet them. Then, the day they turned 8 weeks old he would go out and pick them up by the hind legs. Once they were just hanging down he took what looked like a small baseball bat and hit them just behind the head. They never moved or knew what happened. Then he would skin them and not get one hair on the flesh. That was a big item with my grandmother. We ate a lot of rabbits. Smothered or dumplings, sometimes like chicken fried steak. Squirril pretty much the same taste.

As you all know the rabbit is not a member of the family Rodentia. It is a member of the Family Lagomorphae. The differentiation has to do with the fact that they have 2 pairs of upper and lower incisors whereas the Rodents have a single pair of incisors.

Both are very tasty if properly prepared.

My grandfather used to tell me that in East Texas, wild rabbits would carry "wolves" in their flesh. That was a type of parasite. If a rabbit was killed in the hot summer months the "wolves" were present and made the flesh inedible. If, however, they were killed once the weather turned cool, the parasite could not be found.

That is pretty much all I know about rabbits.

65 posted on 08/07/2005 7:39:47 PM PDT by Texas Songwriter
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To: Prime Choice

I'll join you, in that case!

My favorite beaver recipe involves a preliminary waxing step....


66 posted on 08/07/2005 7:40:49 PM PDT by ApplegateRanch (The Marching Morons are coming...and they're breeding more Democrats beyond all reason!)
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To: ApplegateRanch
If they can't 'endangerize' it off the market, or regulate it to oblivion, they cutsie it off the table.

It's going to take a lot of work for them to get rid of catfish.

67 posted on 08/07/2005 7:48:08 PM PDT by PAR35
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To: Texas Songwriter
That is pretty much all I know about rabbits.

Jeez. Sounds like enough.

Tho I would never eat one, if people want to raise rabbits for meat, that's their thing. What I don't get is petting them, etc., then killing them. Just fatten 'em up in a pen and be done with it.

68 posted on 08/07/2005 7:48:58 PM PDT by radiohead (Proud member of the 'arrogant supermagt')
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To: Prime Choice

I can't wait to finish my degree and get a house. My son and I have toyed with setting aside a room, laying linoleum and letting a bunch of rabbits just hang out.

In real life, since I don't see any grandchildren on the horizon, I'll probably just get two bunnies to spoil.


69 posted on 08/07/2005 7:52:29 PM PDT by radiohead (Proud member of the 'arrogant supermagt')
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To: PAR35
It's going to take a lot of work for them to get rid of catfish.

I'll help get rid of catfish.

My wife & I are more than happy to eat them into oblivion.LOL

70 posted on 08/07/2005 7:54:35 PM PDT by ApplegateRanch (The Marching Morons are coming...and they're breeding more Democrats beyond all reason!)
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To: radiohead
That's very cool. Both of the bunnies here were rescues. Bucky (the one shown in an earlier post with a Martian backdrop) is still with me. He's almost 10 years old now.
Bailey was over 8 years old when she passed away. It wasn't until long afterward that I learned that dwarf rabbits typically live only 5 to 7 years.
71 posted on 08/07/2005 7:55:59 PM PDT by Prime Choice (Thanks to the Leftists, yesterday's deviants are today's "alternate lifestyles.")
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To: radiohead
He was a very kind man who loved animals. All animals. He would never be cruel or unkind to any animal.

He lived thru the depression and was very, very poor. At times, all he and his family had to eat was a squirril or rabbit. He hunted out of an area in Texas, Anhuac. The 30's were very difficult times and he did all he knew to provide for his wife and 3 kids.

As far as his rabbits, he would never hurt them in any way. He really did love the animals. But when it came to providing food for the table, it was his nature to provide.

I remember my grandmother would can preserves, figs, wild plums, peaches. She would freeze peaches. Dehydrate apples. It was her nature not to waste anything. She gave much of it away, but neither she nor my grandfather wasted anything. I am sorry to say I am not as careful with my bounty.

72 posted on 08/07/2005 7:58:31 PM PDT by Texas Songwriter
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To: elcid1970

Not only that, them puppies is real.

And for you kiddies out there that aren't old enough to remember the days before boob jobs, size doesn't matter - but real does.

Now, on to the meat of the matter. When is Thumper arriving on a platter?


73 posted on 08/07/2005 8:02:11 PM PDT by ChildOfThe60s (If you can remember the 60s......you weren't really there.)
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To: BulletBobCo
Rabbits are fast..... As the male rabbit said to the female rabbit, "This won't hurt, did it?"

And she said, "It aint no big thing!"

74 posted on 08/07/2005 8:05:28 PM PDT by eeriegeno
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To: Balding_Eagle

"What is the ratio for rabbit?"

2 rabbits and 1 pound of grain produce 20 more rabbits ;)

Then add an extra pound of grain to make some pancakes for their heads.


75 posted on 08/07/2005 8:23:18 PM PDT by adam_az (It's the border, stupid!)
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To: BulletBobCo

Hassenpheffer..

I got rabbits all over the place...will have to start culling
them after the first hard frost..

Before they draw in the coyotes..


76 posted on 08/07/2005 8:53:30 PM PDT by joesnuffy (Save the whales. Redeem them for valuable prizes.)
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To: BulletBobCo

I like roast squirrel pretty good too. It has a sweet, nutty taste, but there's not much meat there.


77 posted on 08/07/2005 8:54:05 PM PDT by Surtur (Free Trade is NOT Fair Trade unless both economies are equivalent.)
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To: Texas Songwriter
I am sorry to say I am not as careful with my bounty.

I am trying to do better. I see that I waste so much food, even when I'm trying to be economical. We don't finish what's in the fridge but go shopping for more. I find stuff hidden away that I forgot I bought.

I think we are too used to having special foods and interesting meals all the time; we forget that the idea is to provide sustenence. If I had to go out and hunt it or raise it, or hope that what I had now would last til next season, I'm sure I'd be more careful.

78 posted on 08/07/2005 9:03:17 PM PDT by radiohead (Proud member of the 'arrogant supermagt')
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To: Prime Choice

Typical rabbit, dumping on the high ground.


79 posted on 08/07/2005 9:07:58 PM PDT by Atchafalaya (When you're there, that's the best!!)
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To: BulletBobCo

Funny, I cooked two today from the freezer to make room. Browned, sauteed onions, bells, garlic, 8oz rotel tomatoes/1/4 cup red wine(cook down), add browned meat with water to simmer until tender. I only have two left so lock and load for next season. Better than chicken, fo sho!


80 posted on 08/07/2005 9:14:34 PM PDT by Atchafalaya (When you're there, that's the best!!)
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