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OK, now I know where to go next week. Sunday we are flying to Rome. We haven’t set up any tours figuring went we get there. This is now at the top of my list. Wow!

http://saintpetersbasilica.org/Necropolis/ScaviTour.htm

You may want to book this right away. They only take a few people a day.

Definitely do the Palatine hill, above the Forum. It's beautiful for one thing, and for another it's the same ticket that gets you in the Colosseum, but with a much shorter line. (The line at the Colosseum is just to buy the ticket). Then, around on the other side of the Colosseum and a couple of blocks up, check out Basilica of San Clemente. It's a 15th Century church but, when you take the stairs down a flight, you're in a 4th Century church, complete with frescoes. Go down another flight and you're at 1st Century Roman street level. One of the coolest things I saw in a city full of cool things.

At the Vatican, be sure to take the little side jaunt to see the tombs of the popes.

I assume you've been warned about the gypsies. They look exactly like what you'd think gypsies look like. Do not engage them (or more correctly, let don't let them engage you) and keep track of your valuables when they're around. If you're waiting in the line for the Vatican Museum, you'll definitely see them. On the streets around the Colosseum, too. Once you're aware of them, though, they're kind of interesting to observe in an anthropological way. Watch for the fake baby under the blanket hiding the pickpocketing arm thing.

What else? The Spanish Steps I thought were kinda disappointing. If you happen by them, enjoy them, but don't make a special effort to get there. My opinion, anyway.

On the other hand, don't hesitate to walk into any church if the doors are unlocked. They're all filled with treasures. We wandered into one, off the Piazza del Popolo, and saw two spectacular Caravaggio paintings, including this one, The Crucifixion of St. Peter

Are you going anywhere else in Italy?