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Metrosexuals Come Out (marketing to the new feminized man)
New York Times ^ | 06/22/03 | WARREN ST. JOHN

Posted on 06/23/2003 9:32:57 PM PDT by Drew68

Metrosexuals Come Out

By WARREN ST. JOHN

By his own admission, 30-year-old Karru Martinson is not what you'd call a manly man. He uses a $40 face cream, wears Bruno Magli shoes and custom-tailored shirts. His hair is always just so, thanks to three brands of shampoo and the precise application of three hair grooming products: Textureline Smoothing Serum, got2b styling glue and Suave Rave hairspray.

Mr. Martinson likes wine bars and enjoys shopping with his gal pals, who have come to trust his eye for color, his knack for seeing when a bag clashes with an outfit, and his understanding of why some women have 47 pairs of black shoes. ("Because they can!" he said.) He said his guy friends have long thought his consumer and grooming habits a little . . . different. But Mr. Martinson, who lives in Manhattan and works in finance, said he's not that different.

"From a personal perspective there was never any doubt what my sexual orientation was," he said. "I'm straight as an arrow."

So it was with a mixture of relief and mild embarrassment that Mr. Martinson was recently asked by a friend in marketing to be part of a focus group of "metrosexuals" — straight urban men willing, even eager, to embrace their feminine sides.

Convinced that these open-minded young men hold the secrets of tomorrow's consumer trends, the advertising giant Euro RSCG, with 233 offices worldwide, wanted to better understand their buying habits. So in a private room at the Manhattan restaurant Eleven Madison Park recently, Mr. Martinson answered the marketers' questions and schmoozed with 11 like-minded straight guys who were into Diesel jeans, interior design, yoga and Mini Coopers, and who would never think of ordering a vodka tonic without specifying Grey Goose or Ketel One.

Before the focus group met, Mr. Martinson said he was suspicious that such a thing as a metrosexual existed. Afterward, he said, "I'm fully aware that I have those characteristics."

America may be on the verge of a metrosexual moment. On July 15, Bravo will present a makeover show, "Queer Eye for the Straight Guy," in which a team of five gay men "transform a style-deficient and culture-deprived straight man from drab to fab," according to the network. Condé Nast is developing a shopping magazine for men, modeled after Lucky, its successful women's magazine, which is largely a text-free catalog of clothes and shoes.

There is no end to the curious new vanity products for young men, from a Maxim-magazine-branded hair coloring system to Axe, Unilever's all-over body deodorant for guys. And men are going in for self-improvement strategies traditionally associated with women. For example, the number of plastic surgery procedures on men in the United States has increased threefold since 1997, to 807,000, according to the American Society for Aesthetic Plastic Surgery.

"Their heightened sense of aesthetics is very, very pronounced," Marian Salzman, chief strategy officer at Euro RSCG, who organized the gathering at Eleven Madison Park, said of metrosexuals. "They're the style makers. It doesn't mean your average Joe American is going to copy everything they do," she added. "But unless you study these guys you don't know where Joe American is heading."

Paradoxically, the term metrosexual, which is now being embraced by marketers, was coined in the mid-90's to mock everything marketers stand for. The gay writer Mark Simpson used the word to satirize what he saw as consumerism's toll on traditional masculinity. Men didn't go to shopping malls, buy glossy magazines or load up on grooming products, Mr. Simpson argued, so consumer culture promoted the idea of a sensitive guy — who went to malls, bought magazines and spent freely to improve his personal appearance.

Within a few years, the term was picked up by British advertisers and newspapers. In 2001, Britain's Channel Four brought out a show about sensitive guys called "Metrosexuality." And in recent years the European media found a metrosexual icon in David Beckham, the English soccer star, who paints his fingernails, braids his hair and poses for gay magazines, all while maintaining a manly profile on the pitch. Along with terms like "PoMosexual," `just gay enough" and "flaming heterosexuals," the word metrosexual is now gaining currency among American marketers who are fumbling for a term to describe this new type of feminized man.

America has a long tradition of sensitive guys. Alan Alda, John Lennon, even Al Gore all heard the arguments of the feminist movement and empathized. Likewise, there's a history of dashing men like Cary Grant and Humphrey Bogart who managed to affect a personal style with plenty of hair goop but without compromising their virility. Even Harrison Ford, whose favorite accessory was once a hammer, now poses proudly wearing an earring.

But what separates the modern-day metrosexual from his touchy-feely forebears is a care-free attitude toward the inevitable suspicion that a man who dresses well, has good manners, understands thread counts or has opinions on women's fashion is gay.

"If someone's going to judge me on what kind of moisturizer I have on my shelf, whatever," said Marc d'Avignon, 28, a graduate student living in the East Village, who describes himself as "horrendously addicted to Diesel jeans" and living amid a chemistry lab's worth of Kiehl's lotions.

"It doesn't bother me at all. Call it homosexual, feminine, hip, not hip — I don't care. I like drawing from all sorts of sources to create my own persona."

While some metrosexuals may simply be indulging in pursuits they had avoided for fear of being suspected as gay — like getting a pedicure or wearing brighter colors — others consciously appropriate tropes of gay culture the way white suburban teenagers have long cribbed from hip-hop culture, as a way of distinguishing themselves from the pack. Having others question their sexuality is all part of the game.

"Wanting them to wonder and having them wonder is a wonderful thing," said Daniel Peres, the editor in chief of Details, a kind of metrosexual bible. "It gives you an air of mystery: could he be? It makes you stand out."

Standing out requires staying on top of which products are hip and which are not. Marketers refer to such style-obsessed shoppers as prosumers, or urban influentials — educated customers who are picky or just vain enough to spend more money or to make an extra effort in pursuit of their personal look. A man who wants to buy Clinique for Men, for example, has to want the stuff so badly that he will walk up to the women's cosmetics counter in a department store, where Clinique for Men is sold. A man who wants Diesel jeans has to be willing to pay $135 a pair. A man who insists on Grey Goose has to get comfortable with paying $14 for a martini.

"The guy who drinks Grey Goose is willing to pay extra," said Lee Einsidler, executive vice president of Sydney Frank Importing, which owns Grey Goose. "He does it in all things in his life. He doesn't buy green beans, he buys haricots verts."

Other retailers hope to entice the man on the fence to get in touch with his metrosexual side. Oliver Sweatman, the chief executive of Sharps, a new line of grooming products aimed at young urban men, said that to lure manly men to buy his new-age shaving gels — which contain Roman chamomile, gotu kola and green tea — the packaging is a careful mixture of old and new imagery. The fonts recall the masculinity of an old barber shop, but a funny picture of a goat on the label implies, he said, something out of the ordinary.

In an effort to out closeted metrosexuals, Ms. Salzman and her marketing team at Euro RSCG are working at perfecting polling methods that will identify "metrosexual markers." One, she noted, is that metrosexuals like telling their friends about their new finds.

Mr. Martinson, the Bruno Magli-wearing metrosexual, agreed. "I'm not in marketing," he said, "But when you take a step back, and say, `Hey, I e-mailed my friends about a great vodka or a great Off Broadway show,' in essence I am a marketer and I'm doing it for free."

Most metrosexuals, though, see their approach to life as serving their own interests in the most important marketing contest of all: the battle for babes. Their pitch to women: you're getting the best of both worlds.

Some women seem to buy it. Alycia Oaklander, a 29-year-old fashion publicist from Manhattan, fell for John Kilpatrick, a Washington Redskins season ticket holder who loves Budweiser and grilling hot dogs, in part because of his passion for shopping and women's fashion shows. On their first dates, Mr. Kilpatrick brought Champagne, cooked elaborate meals and talked the talk about Ms. Oaklander's shoes. They were married yesterday.

"He loves sports and all the guy stuff," Ms. Oaklander said. "But on the other hand he loves to cook and he loves design. It balances out."

The proliferation of metrosexuals is even having an impact in gay circles. Peter Paige, a gay actor who plays the character Emmett on the Showtime series "Queer as Folk," frequently complains in interviews that he's having a harder time than ever telling straight men from gays.

"They're all low-slung jeans and working out with six packs and more hair product than I've ever used in my life, and they smell better than your mother on Easter," he said. Mr. Paige said there was at least one significant difference between hitting on metrosexuals and their less evolved predecessors. "Before, you used to get punched," he said. "Now it's all, `Gee thanks, I'm straight but I'm really flattered.' "


TOPICS: Culture/Society; News/Current Events
KEYWORDS: americanpsycho; culturewar; eeeeewwwwwwwwwwwwwww; flamingheterosexuals; girliemen; girlyboys; homosexualagenda; justgayenough; males; mamasboys; marketingplan; metrosexuals; narcisism; pomosexual; realvanity; thatboyaintright
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To: Drew68
minded straight guys who were into Diesel jeans, interior design, yoga and Mini Coopers, and who would never think of ordering a vodka tonic without specifying Grey Goose or Ketel One.

Bill Clinton drinks Ketel One.

George Dubya drank Jim Beam (when he used to drink).

That said it all.

201 posted on 06/24/2003 8:15:51 AM PDT by Drew68
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To: wimpycat
You're more of a Budweiser out-of-the-can drinker type.

New Neighbor Tested with Beer

202 posted on 06/24/2003 8:17:35 AM PDT by Constitution Day (Have *you* taunted a liberal today?)
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To: Constitution Day
Honda Element:

Yet another of the shoebox-on-wheels marketed toward the "urban chic"...

Feh... Wait 'til Toyota finishes introducing the Scion xB & xA across the rest of the nation:


203 posted on 06/24/2003 8:18:21 AM PDT by mhking
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To: AAABEST
Makes Jack Daniels taste like crap.

Dirty dish water makes Jack Daniel taste like crap. I'll stick with my George, thank you...

204 posted on 06/24/2003 8:20:09 AM PDT by mhking
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To: mhking
My dream auto is the new GTO...
205 posted on 06/24/2003 8:22:03 AM PDT by hchutch ("If you don’t win, you don’t get to put your principles into practice." David Horowitz)
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To: mhking
Utterly lame. What happened to real cars with curves?
206 posted on 06/24/2003 8:25:12 AM PDT by Constitution Day (Have *you* taunted a liberal today?)
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To: hchutch
My dream auto is the new GTO...

The 2004 Holden Monaro, which will become the 2005 GTO when it gets to the States...


207 posted on 06/24/2003 8:28:25 AM PDT by mhking
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To: Constitution Day
What happened to real cars with curves?

Tell me about it... I'm kind of sick of these wimpy cars. Now Chrysler is coming up with something that looks pretty. The 2005 Chrysler Crossfire (built on the Benz SLK chassis, but tighter and heavier - which will make it stick better in the curves).


208 posted on 06/24/2003 8:32:20 AM PDT by mhking
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To: mhking
Tell me about it... I'm kind of sick of these wimpy cars.

Behold the Cadillac V-16. 1000hp sitting on the showroom floor.


209 posted on 06/24/2003 8:44:24 AM PDT by Drew68
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To: mhking
Bitchin'! I want one.
210 posted on 06/24/2003 8:47:01 AM PDT by Constitution Day (Have *you* taunted a liberal today?)
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To: MattAMiller
Just because a fella has good taste doesn't make him a sissy. James Bond would fit into this category in many ways, is he a sissy?

Well if we are talking Roger Moore, then Yes!!!

211 posted on 06/24/2003 8:54:49 AM PDT by Sci Fi Guy
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To: Drew68
Anything from this distillery is fine with me (Not a Metrosexual)


212 posted on 06/24/2003 9:03:18 AM PDT by OutSpot
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To: Xenalyte
I have learned one thing from this thread - I should try the Mach 3.

;^)

213 posted on 06/24/2003 9:22:43 AM PDT by headsonpikes
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To: headsonpikes
Absolutely! You will never use a different razor.
214 posted on 06/24/2003 9:52:03 AM PDT by Xenalyte (I may not agree with your bumper sticker, but I'll defend to the death your right to stick it)
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To: Chancellor Palpatine
Jack Daniels

[shudder]

I hate going somewhere, ordering bourbon, and having somebody bring out that horse pi** instead.

Its just not right.

Forgive me for arriving so late to the Metrosexual thread. Replying took even longer because it took me a while to recover from the shock of seeing such heresy posted on a public forum.

Southern men of my age (and from good families, of course) were indoctinated into the cult of Mr. Daniels at an early age by kindly benefactors. The favorite uncle who let you have a snort when the old man wasn't looking (even though he knew it anyway)...

Horsepiss? You've wounded me. And to think that I've always respected your opinion...

215 posted on 06/24/2003 10:17:23 AM PDT by TontoKowalski
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To: Chancellor Palpatine
Yeah - I've seen that before. Not fun drunk - mean drunk - a bad combo [discussing Jack Daniels]

My passioned defense of Jack notwithstanding, I have to admit that the combination of Jack Daniels and faulty fence lines is probably the leading cause of death in the South.

I have seen some mean drunks before, and even starred in my own Mean Drunk Olympics (we'll not discuss the Sportscenter highlights), which is why I follow a strict 2-Jacks-then-beer policy.

216 posted on 06/24/2003 10:22:36 AM PDT by TontoKowalski
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To: TontoKowalski
Nah, the leading cause of death in my part of the south is Camaros with at least one primered fender, a zillion cans of Old Milwaukee and guys with mullets who say "hold muh beer and watch this"...
217 posted on 06/24/2003 11:27:25 AM PDT by Chancellor Palpatine (Fox News Alert - Its June 24, and there is nothing to report on the Laci Peterson killing)
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To: FreedomPoster
This is the smart.

Designed by swatch,

built by mercedez,

driven in europe.

NOT a mans car.

Even detroid has been sissifying cars.

The SUV craze is proof sissifyied cars loose in the free market.

.

218 posted on 06/24/2003 11:37:27 AM PDT by longtermmemmory
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To: longtermmemmory
That isn't a car at all...it's a golf cart!
219 posted on 06/24/2003 12:04:29 PM PDT by Mr. Jeeves
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To: Xenalyte
My boss actually bought enough Mach 3s for every man in the office and passed them out - great marketing strategy!

"I liked it so much, I bought the company."

220 posted on 06/24/2003 12:32:14 PM PDT by weegee
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