My pop was born in Italy and I’ve been there a number of times, but I know no area as well as you know the ones you’ve seen.
my visits add up to maybe 2 months over a lifetime.
Yours was 2 and a half years!!
What you describe sounds beautiful.
And yes a mom and pop in Italy is definitely a treat for the senses!
Despite our rocky start way back when, it seems Poles and Itals can get together..