[Jamestown1630]

"The surf there is among the strongest I've ever experienced.

I almost drowned there one Summer; not even from a rip current, but the day after a storm when the backrush was powerful. I think it's one of the most beautiful places in the world, but it can be very dangerous if you aren't a strong and knowledgeable swimmer, which I wasn't. The bottom is always shifting - I've seen a lady caught in a rip very close to shore; fortunately she was saved, but it was terrifying to see how fast it pulled her along and how helpless she seemed.

[Torahman]

As I’ve taught my daughter since she was a baby: 1) The Ocean doesn’t know you’re there and doesn’t care if you die. 2) Never turn your back on the Ocean. 3) Never let your surfboard get between you and an oncoming wave. (It’ll knock your teeth out!)