No time to reload when it has come down to run and gun.
I've been reloading since 1999. The key problem is getting supplies. Your expendables are powder/primer/bullets. Brass is reusable, but must be cleaned, decapped, resized. About 10 reloads is a reasonable expectation before issues of trimming a case or facing cracked brass due to work hardening. I avoid nickel plated brass for 357mag as it rapidly work hardens and cracks. Plain brass holds up better. Reusing your brass from a factory loaded box is often OK, but I found the Hornady brass was too soft from the 300 gr loads for 454 Casull. They stick to the cylinder walls of the Ruger Super Redhawk (poor polish of the cylinder walls is partly to blame). Starline brass is better for 454 Casull. It drops free with a light tap of the ejector.
Newbies should start with straight wall cases e.g. 38SPL, 357mag, 45Auto, 40 S&W, 44SPL, 44mag. The Lee Precision Factory Crimp dies are worth the money. Put a good roll crimp on revolver rounds, taper crimp on semi-autos. 9mm isn't straight wall and requires a little extra care. The bottle nose cases e.g. 357sig, .223 Win, .308 Win, 5.56 require some extra care to no crash the case mouth when seating. The best crimp dies for bottle mouth brass are collet style.
Buy load books and follow the recipes carefully. ALWAYS weigh the powder. Depending on a volumetric scoop will yield inconsistent results...perhaps dangerous ones too.