I was just remembering -—
When we first came to China in 1990, the four children we had then were all under thirteen years old, and all WHITE haired (”toe-headed”).
We were waiting at a train station and crowds of people hovered over us, ALL wanting to feel the children’s hair.
Police arrived to disperse the crowd, and we were shown to a private waiting room. The police said, “You are too WHITE!”
A year after Tian’An,Men I was in the square taking pictures (on the sly) of the tank-gouged steps on the People’s Heros monument, and the plastered bullet holes on its side. No problem — I got away with it. In the mid 90’s I was again in the square, this time with my husband and was taking the same pictures again, to see the difference over the years - still on the sly. My husband tapped me on the shoulder, and said that “this gentleman” wanted to say something to me. I turned and there was a man in uniform. Now — as many times as I have been in China, I could never figure out the different uniforms on the policemen or the servicemen. I thought this man was a policeman and that he had seen me taking the pictures. So I politely, in my limited Mandarin, asked hinm what he wanted and he pointed to my camera. I damn near died! Then he pointed to an older man who was nearby and asked if he could have a picture of them taken with me and in turn if we would use his camera to take a picture of all of us. Can you imagine relief??!! ‘Dangran’! ‘Certainly’! I said!!! He was a serviceman, touring the city with his Father, and as so often happens, asked to have a picture taken with foreigners. I was delighted. We took the pictures and parted with smiles and waves.
In my many visits and/or study sessions to China, I have had very few unpleasant experiences. Only one really stands out — a pickpocket. The people were friendly and when I got to know them as individuals, they opened up to me. They loved their country, and the older ones could see the positive changes that were happening. The span of time from my first to last - 1984-1997, I could see the changes for myself. Materialistically, of course, but in the freedom to do things and go places was also also apparent. As Zhanng Fei pointed out — there is great progress even off the beaten track. They have come a long way since the Mao era, and along with the freedoms has also come some negatives. But that is human nature. The Chinese are no different from the rest of humanity. With so many people, there has to be a strong central government. Imagine the chaos without it.
I’d go back tomorrow, but I can’t take all the walking, anymore. But I love that country and its people and its history.
About the language. I’m still studying it! I’ll never be fluent, but after several years of formal study, I love and respect the language so much that I still do reading, writing, and analysis of the characters. Fascinating! And I’m great in a Chinese restaurant!!