Posted on 01/09/2007 8:54:02 AM PST by kiriath_jearim
For personal defense, I always figure that if you need more than 5-6 rounds, it's time to get somewhere else in a hurry.
Smith 1917 with commercial grips.
1954 Smith Highway Patrolman with Moose Stags
Smith 1 and 1/2 .32 Centerfire circa 1880.
See #22 and bite your tongue.
1. It has to fit your hand (like a Browning Hi-Power and 1911).
2. It must go Bang when you pull the trigger (like a BHP and 1911).
3. It must hit what you aim at (Like a BHP and 1911).
4.Ir must eject and reload a cartrige when fired (like a BHP and 1911).
Wheel guns must work and fit the hands also, like a Dan Wesson. S&W and Ruger.
I wouldn't personally use a new firearm as a carry piece at all. They need to earn their way onto my belt. Of the three I use for that purpose at the moment not a one has fewer than 5000 rounds through it. And it does take a deliberate effort to practice with each of them, because there are other firearms more fun to shoot. So little time...
Right, long time ago I asked a guy who knew guns "What handgun should I buy for selfdefence", he answered: If you need to shot somebody YOU WANT HIM DEAD. I took his advice and got S&W .38. It is not a .45 but I believe that in need it will kill everyone in the room.
Here's my criteria, in order:
1. Reliability: Nothing else matters if the weapon fails to go "bang" when you pull the trigger. Get something that is as reliable as possible.
2. Accuracy - both weapon and user: A .50AE weapon is useless if you can't hit anything with it. Likewise a hit from a .22 can kill if delivered by someone with good shot placement. Get something that you can hit with.
3. Power: "Knockdown power" is a myth, but the bigger the caliber you can accurately hit with, the better.
4. Magazine capacity/reload speed: Enemies do not always come solo like they do in kung fu movies. They also do not always come in convenient six-packs, nor are you a movie hero that can put a bad guy down with just one round and never miss. You may also wish to use suppressive fire. Magazine capacity is an additional weapon - if you have it.
The problem with a revolver is that the bad guys don't always come in six packs. Or, for that matter (if you're not a Hollywood hero), do they always go down with just one shot.
Kill everyone in the room? Maybe - if there's only 3-6 guys. # 7 will kill you.
Bingo, we have a winner!
The use determines the need.
A poster recommended the Taurus 85 to me for the wife -- a little less expensive. Nightstand gun. We don't have concealed carry here.
The best gun for what?
Accuracy & marksmanship?
Close quarters?
Night fighting where you can't really aim?
Do you want to kill a Rhino or Squirrel?
Deer Hunting?
Inexpensive plinking?
Home protection?
Do you have to carry the darn thing for long distances (25+ miles).
Does it need to penetrate armor?
Does it need to be automatic?
Not a very good question. The author just wants to state what he likes.
Nothing beats a good wheel gun in reliability
(in keeping with the subject matter): BullsEye!
1911
.40 S&W is what I carry as well.
As for the thread topic, I would say the best "gun" is one that's in your hands when needed.
Inspecting the gun, I find that the barrel locking area is deformed and mushed up. I sort of fixed it with a file but I no longer feel confident in the gun. Also the ultralight hammer seems not quite up to the job of reliably firing a primer. When I asked my dealer about it he said "Hey, this kind of gun was not meant to fire thousands of rounds".
So I'm back to either a .45, Makarov or .38 snubby. They work and they don't wear out.
That Warthog looks cool, but choosing a 1911 over a S&W auto is a big mistake. The design of the extrator and feed ramp of the 1911 have been obsolete since 1935. John Browning fixed these flaws in the Hi-Power. 1911s require far too much modification to be reliable, and will require more work to keep them running over time. I'll put my S&W 4506 up against ANY 1911 in a torture test and the 1911 will always choke first.
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