Posted on 09/17/2006 11:08:52 PM PDT by NinoFan
Yes, the automat. No, not the Horn & Hardart Automat that appeared on the dining scene at the turn of the last century and finally closed the last of its 180 restaurants in New York in 1991. This is a brand-new concept. A hip new automat that dispenses comfort food "25 hours a day" in New York City's East Village.
This I had to see. And taste.
Now an automat, for those you who were not in New York from 1912 to 1991, is a wonderful system where all kinds of food -- hot food, cold food, desserts, and main dishes -- were displayed behind little glass doors. You made your selection and dropped in the appropriate amount of coins. You could then take out you choice, grab a seat and dig in.
The automat was indeed iconic. In "Gentlemen Prefer Blondes," Marilyn Monroe sang "Diamonds are a Girl's Friend," which includes these lyrics: "A kiss may be grand but it won't pay the rental on your humble flat, or help you at the automat."
Edward Hopper's 1927 painting "Automat" depicts a lonely young woman lingering at the automat. Diane Airbus's photograph "Two Ladies at the Automat" is a 1966 time capsule of two New York women of a certain age dressed to the nines -- if not the tens -- for lunch at the automat.
There are television and movie references a-plenty. The automat was part of New York life. Then came the exodus to the suburbs. Fast food. Food on the go. The old automat locations became more valuable as real estate. The girl fresh from the Midwest, the young eager guy right from college -- no, the automat was no longer for them. Just a few graying biddies from bookkeeping munching away on their burgundy beef and noodles. Some of the old automat locations became Burger Kings. New York never stands still.
The automat is back: the new automat that is. Re-imaged by the hip for the hip. Two young entrepreneurs, David Leong and Robert Kwak, plus executive chef Kevin Reilly and a designer who goes by the name Nobu, have brought Bamn, the automat, right into the heart of hipdom: New York's East Village.
I had the perfect excuse to give Bamn a try. My husband's goddaughter was in town. While Marty and I don't fit Bamn's demographics, she does: Early 20s, long blonde hair, perfectly tailored pants, little camisole top.
On the long cab ride downtown, Marty asked, "You did make reservations, didn't you."
"Nope," I replied and looked out the window as we sped by the East River. He fidgeted, thinking no doubt, "New restaurant, long wait for a table."
I hadn't informed him that there are no tables.
We arrived at the hot pink storefront. There are instructions about food selection and inserting coins so no one ever needs to look uncool, which is so important at a cool place. Change can be had at machines. While nickels and dimes were the coins of the realm at the old automat, here silver dollars and quarters are the open sesame for the little doors.
And what's behind those doors? Tiny delicious hamburgers doused in teriyaki sauce, fabulous roast pork buns, melted cheese sandwiches oozing goodness, hot dogs, Japanese doughnuts, mac-and-cheese croquets (a Dutch addition), pizza dumplings. At the counter, customers were ordering up Belgian fries and mini-regular hamburgers four and six at a time.
We were early, and with the sight of those pork buns, we didn't wait. Our goddaughter was on time, but two pork buns and a hamburger behind us. There are no seats. We stood on the sidewalk and inhaled the food. Yum.
And we watched the crowds: tattoos, piercings, boots and cordovans, ties and t-shirts, long hair, short hair, no hair.
Everyone who passed did a double take.
"Oh wow, an automat."
Found the website for this automat: http://www.bamnfood.com/
"Show me just what Mohammed brought that was new, and there you will find things only evil and inhuman, such as his command to spread by the sword the faith he preached." -Manuel II Paleologus
So am I. :)
Diane Arbus, Two Ladies at The Automat, 1966
Just Bamn.
Or you could just go to a diner.
This would be a great concept for today's malls.
I know. In addition to their zillions of vending machines, the Japanese have full-sized stores of the automat-variety. I don't understand why it isn't very common here, especially in the big cities.
Old-school automats had a kitchen behind the wall, and people feeding food into the coin-op slots. it wasn't just suburbs and fast food that doomed them, but technology. Refrigeration, preservation and automation.
If you want to grab a bite without dealing with a waiter/waitress, you can get a sandwich from a vending machine or convenience store and drop it in a microwave. They take a lot less money and labor to maintain.
According to its website, the food is made and added fresh throughout the day, so I'm guessing that this automat must have a kitchen behind it too.
Every vending machine "meal" I've ever had has not been very good at all. This on the other hand is a fresh-made meal to go without having to wait in line or talk to an annoying waitress.
As for the expense to run one, you're right that's it much more expensive than a vending machine, but the quality is so much better and it's still cheaper than running a restaurant.
Nice art!
This automat story has somehow reactivated some heretofore dormant ancient neurons reminding me of the great time I had hanging out at the world's largest model train garden in the Fair's "Better Living Center"'
Japanese doughnuts? I wonder if they have the curry variety.
(In Japan, curry doughnuts are quite popular, and apparently this bakery/cafe in Brookline in the link makes them.)
Go Bob go! Get me some a them teriyaki burgers!
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