Posted on 06/19/2005 10:59:55 AM PDT by IAF ThunderPilot
Young Iranian women board their flight home alive from a Paris vacation. By the time they land in Tehran, it is as if they have returned to a prison sentence. By Orli Azoulai, Yedioth Ahronoth
TEHRAN I stood behind a long line of girls, waiting to board Air France flight 39, nonstop Paris-to-Tehran. I, an Israeli reporter, going to cover an election in the country Prime Minister Ariel Sharon has called Israels the number one threat.
Here in Paris, the Iranians wore trendy jeans and make up, chirped happily on their cell phones with friends about last nights adventures in the citys pubs, and various shades of dyed blonde hair draped open over their shoulders.
As we prepared to land, the story flipped. One-by-one, the young women went to the bathroom with a plastic bag and came back ready for life in the Islamic Republic - covered head-to-toe, long-faced, and eyes sullen. The laughs they shared as they boarded the plane turned to heavy silence. As they handed their passports to the immigration officer, they looked as if theyd returned to jail.
My official government escort wasnt surprised. This is Iran, she said. Everyone here lives a double life.
No Hebrew, Yiddish
Id arranged my visit to Tehran through an acquaintance living in France, Dr. Manoushar Gangi, a former education minister in the Shahs government who escaped to Paris when the late Ayatollah Khomeini issued an order for his execution.
Forget it, Orly, he said when I told him Id unexpectedly been granted an entry visa. Theyre setting a trap for you.
Once I made it clear Id be going despite the warning, Gangi could only give me advice.
Whatever you do, dont take a taxi from your hotel. All the drivers that work the hotels are government agents and spies. If you want to take a taxi, walk a few blocks, hail a taxi there. Take it for 10 minutes, get out, and find a second one. Then you can go where you want.
Be aware, as soon as you walk into a hotel you are being watched. They are listening to your phone calls, they are listening to your conversations in he lobby. If you have an important interview, take the subject to a park. Dont talk in the hotel. And dont, under any circumstances, let them hear you speak Hebrew or Yiddish.
The advice turned out to be more valuable than gold. I got to know all the areas parks and became an expert in changing taxis. The knowledge allowed me to get away from my grey-suited government tail who followed me like a shadow.
Red carpet
For the trip, my partner stayed in Washington, and we arranged special codes for our phone calls. For instance, if I told him Id bought a red carpet, it meant I was in trouble, and he should try to get me out immediately.
It almost happened. The day after I arrived a bomb went off in downtown Tehran, killing four. That night, an information ministry spokesman arrived at my hotel, telling foreign reporters the blast was perpetrated by the CIA and Israeli agents in order to create havoc in Iran. I had visited the square where the bomb exploded the night before.
I locked myself in my room, and made plans to call my partner to tell him about the red carpet if I heard a knock at the door. It never came.
Different Iran
Most of the people I met knew who I was but didnt talk about it. They led me to believe I was protected. It was important to them to show me a different Iran: a country taht wants to re-join the family of nations and rid itself of its image as the cradle of international terrorism.
Ping of interest!
So I wonder how much Sean Penn got to see of the real Iran,
and how many Iranians spoke frankly with him (while his government watchers were standing by. . .)
You know - this is what really sickens me. I cannot for the life of me understand seemingly intelligent people who go to a restrictive-society country and actually believe what they are shown. It is beyond my belief. I mean - don't they read or anything? Don't they realize that they are being shown only what the dictators WANT them to see? Frustration, frustration, frustration!!!
BUMPING!
Hebrew is a no-no, but how would any average Iranian know the difference between Yiddish and German?
I assume that French would be OK under all circumstances.
WARNING: This is a high volume ping list
Young women whocan afford and do flit off alone to Paris for some R and R might not be a represenatative sample if the Iranian population. Just a thought.
Bump
I know the differences! Whats the big deal?
Yep!
Gee I only had three typos in two sentences. Somebody needs to put me into conservatorship.
Sleepy?
Useful fools allegedly used by Lenin to describe those who supported the Revolution without having any true understanding of what they were doing or about the Revolution itself.
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