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Also, does anyone know the easiest way to relieve the fuel system pressure?
1 posted on 07/28/2003 11:39:16 AM PDT by Michael Barnes
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To: unix
It sounds like it could be the fuel filter- I don't know when a change is directed by Chevy (ask me about Audis- I have the A4 shop manual on my bookshelf) Have you looked for Chevy Forums online? Someone there can be better able to help you out. Best of luck to you!
2 posted on 07/28/2003 11:43:10 AM PDT by Vesuvian
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To: unix
you sure it's the fuel line problem and not your timing chain?
3 posted on 07/28/2003 11:44:08 AM PDT by shadeaud (Liberals suffer from acute interior cornial craniorectoitis)
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To: unix
What was the temperature outside when this happened at the drive-through?
4 posted on 07/28/2003 11:45:21 AM PDT by Cyber Liberty (© 2003, Ravin' Lunatic since 4/98)
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To: unix
There should be a valve ( it looks like a valve stem from a tire) on top of the engine. It will probably have a blue or black cover on it, use a flat head screw driver and depress the valve.
5 posted on 07/28/2003 11:46:04 AM PDT by bgierhart (I stand behind my President)
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To: unix
It sounds like it might be fuel related. How full was your tank? You could have a percolation problem where the fuel in the lines boils (sometimes called vapor lock). This usually happens when it’s hot outside and the fuel level is below half a tank.

Did the car start back up after it had set for awhile or is it still giving you problems?

A good garage can check the fuel pressure and tell you if you have a bad fuel pump or a clogged filter.

6 posted on 07/28/2003 11:51:58 AM PDT by mbynack
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To: unix
Also, does anyone know the easiest way to relieve the fuel system pressure?

Loosen the fuel line where it goes into the throttle body.

7 posted on 07/28/2003 11:56:02 AM PDT by mbynack
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To: unix
Out of gas?
9 posted on 07/28/2003 12:02:32 PM PDT by FateAmenableToChange
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To: unix
If the vehicle is fuel injected, you should be able to relieve pressure by taking the wires off one of the injectors on the rail, hooking some 18 gauge jumper wires to the battery, and touching them several times to the exposed contact on the injector. the important thing is to just tap the injector with the wires, don't hold the wire on the injector. I found that 3 or 4 taps usually works.
10 posted on 07/28/2003 12:05:00 PM PDT by ThinkingMan (How's my posting? Call 1-800-UR-RIGHT)
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To: unix
I realize FReepers are full of advice (mostly good advice), but you might try a site intended for such stuff like http://www.mechanic.cc/mechanic/index.htm or similar sights.

PS: fuel pump sounds like a likely culprit to me. Fuel pressure relief valve should be on the fuel rail leading to the injectors (Schrader valve on my Jeep). Check for fuel pressure there to start with.

16 posted on 07/28/2003 12:29:55 PM PDT by The_Victor
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To: unix
I'm going to jump ship here, and offer this:

I had a 90 Ford suffer these issues, and it turned out the be sludge buildup in the cylindars. (and it wasn't caught until it was so far gone to do anything about it.)

Best of luck.

21 posted on 07/28/2003 5:48:12 PM PDT by Maigrey (Member of the Dose's Jesus Freaks and Gonzo News Service)
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To: unix
Forget about vapor lock. It's an impossibility on that particular car. It's also very unlikely that all of the fuel nozzles have suddenly failed. Firing the nozzles by jumpering them to the battery could ruin them, they are designed to fire with short duration pulses (that is the buzzing sound you hear when the engine is idling), and a jolt of direct current is going to heat them up real good. And why do you want to relieve the fuel pressure? Sticking a screwdriver into that valve stem will get you sprayed with gas real good. Only thing of value I've seen upthread is the possibility of a timing chain or belt failure, but that's probably remote.

It sounds like the car fires on starting fluid , and I hope you used only a very small amount. We who run diesel shops love starting fluid, because it causes premature engine failures and brings us work that pays full rate.

I think you have a pocket of water that has made it's way from the tank into the fuel rail. We have a '92 Grand Am, the tank never gets filled. About once a year (during the summer), a bit of water will hit the fuel system and it'll sputter and die. Just put some more gas in the tank and cycle the key switch a few times. That'll get the pocket of water pumped through and it'll probably take off. I'd suggest trying that first. The fuel systems in those cars are super-reliable but they won't run on water (and unfortunately, the government makes the oil companies put some form of alcohol, which almost always has some water content, into the gas).

Try this first before you go changing parts. If you didn't get a "check engine" light, there's probably nothing wrong with the car, and if this trick gets you running and you have a light now, it's probably because that starting fluid has killed your oxygen sensor (which, luckily, is fairly inexpensive to buy and usually easy to replace).

Dave in Eugene

25 posted on 07/28/2003 11:06:07 PM PDT by Clinging Bitterly (Keep forgetting to update this thing from thread-specific taglines. Am I the only one?)
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To: unix
Sounds like might be MAP (manifold absolute pressure) sensor....cheap to check out....
28 posted on 07/29/2003 12:50:00 PM PDT by righteous_harmony_fists
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