Posted on 05/06/2025 4:47:52 PM PDT by nickcarraway
I might be in the minority of car owners, but I actually enjoy changing my oil. My local big box store has bargain prices for jugs of long-lasting full-synthetic oil and carries OEM filters, so I can usually get out the door for less than $40 in materials for a DIY full-synthetic oil change. Saving money is definitely nice, but so is peace of mind. I'm forever scarred by the time my wife took her SUV to a rapid oil change place that didn't fully tighten the drain plug. Fortunately, we caught the growing oil slick in our driveway before serious engine damage was done.
However, one of the more challenging aspects of the home oil change is removing said drain plug. First, you'll need to remember what size wrench or socket to grab from the toolbox. Then, there's the juggling act of maintaining inward pressure on the plug with your fingers while unscrewing to prevent oil from dribbling out. And finally, you pull the liberated drain plug away at lightning speed while still somehow getting hot oil on your hands and the floor.
It was for these reasons that the quick drain oil plug was invented. Quick drain oil plugs allow you to empty the contents of your engine's oil pan by merely twisting a small valve. Many of these gadgets also have a fitting to attach a flexible hose to more precisely direct the outflow. The concept almost seems too good to be true, so why aren't all vehicles equipped with this engineering marvel?
It's more vulnerable than a regular drain plug
It's been speculated that the reasons auto manufacturers don't use drain valves as original equipment is because of their higher cost, and though that may be true, there are other considerations. A quick browse of some automotive message boards shows that drivers are concerned that the quick drain oil valves are considerably taller than a conventional low-profile drain plug. The logic is that it might be damaged or accidentally opened from striking an object, like an SUV-defeating rock.
That's particularly concerning to owners of four-wheel drive vehicles who frequently travel off-road and are exposed to obstacles. Certain products have backup mechanisms like a steel cap to prevent spills in case the valve accidentally gets bumped open. Still, there's no denying that an oil drain valve hangs down lower than a regular thread-in drain plug.
Another concern over quick drain oil plugs is that the drain opening is smaller than a conventional plug. That means that it's going to take longer for all of your used oil to drain from the pan. In fact, some users level the accusation that the oil never drains 100% completely because the tip of the quick drain plug remains protruded into the oil pan while a regular screw-in plug opens the drain hole completely.
But there's plenty of positives, too
Like with so many products, there's going to be pros and cons to buying a quick drain oil plug. So far, we've been pretty pessimistic, but now it's time for the positives, and that's in addition to the basic premise of making oil changes neater and easier. Consider that you won't be repeatedly screwing and unscrewing a threaded drain plug into the oil pan, which can lead to repairing stripped threads if done improperly. And let's be honest, how many shadetree mechanics really use a torque wrench on their drain plugs? That drain plug could regularly be under or over-tightened whereas the quick drain valve is one and done.
Similarly, the rubber gaskets or metal crush washers that seal a traditional oil drain plug need to be replaced periodically. Opinions vary on how many oil changes can be performed in between replacing a drain plug's seal, but the seal that's built into the quick drain plug won't need to be replaced because the valve remains permanently installed.
The grandfather of the oil drain valve is the Japanese company Fumoto, which invented the device in 1976 and began shipping it to the United States in 1984. Since then, others have mimicked the design or developed what they consider to be improved versions. Clearly, there are many fans of the quick drain oil plug concept, while other gearheads don't trust it to stay closed or drain every drop of old oil. Which camp do you fall into?
Same here. I used to do oil changes, tune ups, etc. Life’s too short.
I’ve been using Fumoto oil drain valves for almost 30 years and have never had a single issue. The only vehicle I ever used for serious off roading was my Jeep Wrangler and it had a skid plate protecting the oil drain valve.
>> A problem about to happen for sure.
I am an obsessive do-it-yourselfer — change my own oil, always have, always will until I simply can’t. I have a Fumoto valve in my 25 year old f350drw. It works like a charm, has never leaked a drop. I am glad I installed it. It’s well made, simple to operate, “foolproof”. That’s my story & I’m sticking to it.
With an airplane engine, if a rock hits the drain valve, tucked under the cowling, I'd still say that's the least of your problems.
“However, one of the more challenging aspects of the home oil change is removing said drain plug. First, you’ll need to remember what size wrench or socket to grab from the toolbox.”
If it’s your own car, then write the size somewhere under the hood (or remember that it’s 14mm).
“Then, there’s the juggling act of maintaining inward pressure on the plug with your fingers while unscrewing to prevent oil from dribbling out.”
Nitrile gloves help in that area.
“And finally, you pull the liberated drain plug away at lightning speed while still somehow getting hot oil on your hands and the floor.”
Nitrile gloves (again). Also you can let the car cool down...nothing wrong with that. Just be sure it WAS fully warmed up (as in hot) prior to letting it sit. In other words, drive it up the ramps (if you use them) while the engine is hot, then let it cool for an hour or two before changing the oil. You’ll get the most oil out that way. The way to NOT do it is start the engine cold, drive it up the ramps, then change the oil...as you just circulated cold oil and it will take a long time to drain-down through the engine.
As far as a quick-drain plug, just remember that any valve can get crud in it and stick partially open. Far less likely with an OEM oil plug and new gasket (washer)...so I’ve stayed clear of that option.
(for you EV junkies, don’t worry if you’re clueless about the above as it’s not the only thing you’re clueless about)
I have found loose plugs from a quick change place twice. I only do my own or the dealer does it. I also was at a transmission shop in Bakersfield. The mechanic told me they made pretty good money repairing stripped oil plugs from the quick change outfit next door.
Getting the top O-Ring on and off can be a pain.
I think I see the problem.
I have my trusted mechanic take care of my car maintenance.
I never put one in. I trust the standard drain plug.
Seems Nonsensical, so little gain.
Also very important to cover oil filter gasket with a light coat of fresh oil before HAND TIGHTENING, do not over-tighten !
One of my vehicles in 22 years old and I've done EVERY oil change, usually every 6-8k miles. Vehicle has 165k miles on it now and runs like a top. Has a MANUAL trans. and I love it ! Full synthetic is good stuff, I prefer Mobil 1.
Lifts aren't necessary for sedans, or trucks if they're rated for the vehicle weight. Portable RAMPS are a great way to get the ground clearance to do oil changes.
The best drain plug is one with a magnet.
You have to get rid of loose metal fragments your oil filter is not catching.
Same thing happened to me. Had them change the oil while they were doing other repairs. Next day an oil pool under my vehicle. I tightened the loose drain screw myself but it could have beeen worse.HTH do they not tighten the screw?
I have Fumoto valves on all my vehicles. Never had a problem with them. If I had a serious off-road vehicle I would probably stick with the standard drain plug as they do stick out a little. All my vehicles are high ground clearance. I can change the oil without putting any of the on ramps or jacks, just reach under and flip the switch. The other thing I use is an oil fill funnel that has threads on it. Never had a problem spilling oil. Each manufacturer usually has only one or two different threads on their oil fill caps.
Bad idea
Look on YouTube for vids of customers driving into an oil change pit. They are illegal in kommie Mass.
I usually install a valve on the drain port of small engines
(generator, log splitter) and add a plug for safety.
Pull the plug, turn valve to drain...reverse and fill.
= ‘AND gate’
The shield, or diaper, isn’t even necessary. I have a 2023 F150 and it didn’t even come with a diaper.
This.
Got a smoking deal on a used BMW 128i. Took it to an aftermarket BMW garage, thinking I wouldn't get screwed.
They said the oil plug was "tight", and warned me about removing it. If they couldn't get it back on, it was $4,000 to install a new oil pan. I asked why they couldn't just get a new plug and tap the hole. They said "BMW doesn't do it that way."
I refused the service. Took it home, researched the problem, and got ready to enlarge and tap the hole in the worst case. Turns out the threads were just a little scratchy and cleaned right up with a stock-size tap. I replaced the plug with a Fumoto quick drain plug. Now the plug never has to come out, and haven't had any problems since. Doing most of my service myself now.
Fun car to drive. Last generation of normally aspirated straight sixes with manual transmissions.
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