So sorry to hear of your friend's loss. I remember the incident very well. Although mountain climbing can be risky, what happened in 1981 was a freak situation that few if any could have predicted.
My family had ten small cabins 2 miles from the Nisqually entrance to the park; my dad knew both Jim and Lou Whitaker. In 1979 we climbed Mt. St. Helen's and Mt. Adams since the weather didn't cooperate for Mt. Rainier. You could get to the top of both of the other mountains without crossing large glaciers that became more dangerous when the snow melted off of them.
I used to hang glide in the mountains, and also fly my homemade ultralight airplane in the mountains. It would be lengthy to explain, but the Mikuni carburetor on the Rotax snowmobile engine strapped to the front of the ultralight was capable of high altitude flight when a lean jet was installed. When I purchased a general aviation aircraft in the early 90s, I thought it would be a good idea to check out the ridge lift on the upper slopes of Mt. Rainier.
When you can see that a lenticular cloud has formed above the mountain that means that there are high winds near the top and moist air is being pushed up on the windward side of the mountain. So when I saw a lenticular cloud one day while I was out flying I pointed the nose of the plane toward the mountain.
By the time I got to the mountain I was at around 10,000 feet. I approached from the windward side and when I got in close to the steep slopes, it was very bumpy but I found tremendous lift. A couple more passes and I had plenty of altitude to fly over the top. Of course I had to be very careful to stay out of the "rotor" (descending air on the leeward side of a big hill) which could be very hazardous.
I took friends with me on other days when the same type of conditions were present; it was always an exhilarating ride. These days National Parks are more sensitive about people flying low over the terrain. They request a minimum of 2000 feet above the ground. So it probably would not be a good idea any more and I am just not as adventurous in my old age.