“...a tad underpowered”
LMAO, you think?!
“...a tad underpowered”
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LMAO, you think?!
~~~
Yeah, I don’t get it. The lawnmower carbeurator is going to have a smaller airflow venturi and an equally small float bowl metering needle, so even if your air/fuel ratio is calibrated, your engine is going to heavily fuel starved. I would imagine the V8 is going to have a much higher negative pressure at the top of the manifold than a lawn mower would, so you’ll have to adjust your metered gasoline to compensate, but even still... starved. Where it gets interesting is when you hit the throttle and your throats are too small.
0-60 in about 10 minutes. Still a cool experiment. I like doing stuff like that too.
Not as underpowered as one might think.
At the top end, yes. For passing and high power acceleration, yes.
Installing a Big A$$ Carburetor is probably THE biggest error most people make when “tuning” an engine. Virtually all of the tuning literature available is geared towards drag racing, full throttle acceleration, and what is suitable or desirable for drag racing is not a good a idea for a street engine.
The Air Fuel Ratio at cruising is where most gains can be made, with a suitable advance curve, around 50° or more, very good highway economy can be had with lean air fuel ratios. Under load or acceleration the AFR must remain fat, or stuff starts burning up.
The CFM calculators are also geared towards racing. The OEM usually installed small carburetors. If you plug in a normal cruise RPM (instead of 5800) it will suggest a CFM very close to the OEM. Good fuel atomisation is dependent on a high velocity thru the venturi.
Too large of a carburetor actually runs lean, believe it or not.