Sure. I’ve got a couple of Arkansas stones that I use to finish an edge with. I don’t use them often but I can see why people like them and stick with them. Slower and old school but it does a really nice edge if you’re patient, which I’m usually not. You learn how to use them with oil and then clean the stone with oil after you’ve used it.
I will admit, somehow I have never learned to make the finest shaving-sharp edge on cutlery or pocket knife. My heart has leapt, though, for spotting very fine steel and shape in a second-hand store, actually in two knives in with a bunch of others I wouldn't give a dime for.
The maker etched its identification on the right face of the blade was:
ZWILLING J.A. HENCKELS [ O-O ] NO STAIN FRIODUR xFor the 3-incher the only difference was 80mm (3"). There are twins dancing in the square block at the middle, as above; ane some kind of figure just to the right of the lettering. the 31070 must be the alloy ID which is on the the 4-Star knife blades.
____SOLINGEN__GERMANY [ X|x ] 31070 - 160MM (6")x
I looked up the cost of the 6 incher, and their price even reduced is $140, while the 3 incher is somewhere between $55 to $65. I bought therm out of that box at the thrift store for $1.41, same as any other cutlery that was in the box. And until this moment, I didn't relly have a grasp on their true evalation. The thing is, I thought I had been trying the stoning method described in this article, but it seemed not to be working very well with other knives, and I have been greatly disappointed at my lack of skill in this art. but when used with these two knives, there seemed quite a leap forward. Not as what I would like to get with my Kershaw pocket knife, but markedly forward.
My skills seem to still lack a lot, though. I can use any hint that works! Perhaps I should do the rough part on the carbide stone, then risk the Arkansaw stones for the finishimg stage, eh?
arkansw