Replies

Thought I’d throw this out there as we have quite a few rural folk on here who would be on well water, and quite a few “handy” types too.

So... I’m out of state last night, driving home to beat severe weather expected; wifey calls and says (shallow) well pump is dead. I try to diagnose remotely (wifey has some capacity to help if directed carefully, is familiar with the pressure switch, etc.) Long story short is that it does NOT appear the problem is the pressure switch contacts.

I arrive home ~ 1-1/2 hours later: pump is very warm & making slight “humming” type sound. Then as I am feeling the other side to see how hot it is, the pump makes a faint click and goes quiet. No smoke, burning smell, etc. The entire pump housing is hot but not skin damage in a second hot. I unplug it, thinking “starter capacitor”, and “the thermal overload cutout may have saved the motor”, leaving the pump disconnected overnight, as sometimes capacitors can “heal” temporarily. This mid-morning I open the bathtub “cold water” valve and plug the pump back in: The pressure switch clicks on, the pump hesitates a second (?), making that slight hum again, and then comes fully on and begins pumping just great. I fill the bathtub and every container in sight with very slightly brownish water. (Typical color after heavy rains, which we got.) I did not hear any mechanical issue such as a jammed impeller breaking free, tho’ I suppose I can’t rule out some sort of excess friction causing the motor to start weakly. However, such frictional issues are usually greater when a motor mechanism is cold.)

I’ve been inside a submersible sump pump but never inside a shallow well pump. Research online indicates such well pumps may have both a start cap and a run cap. I’m thinking access may be a little easier with a shallow well pump, since the whole thing doesn’t have to be sealed for submersion.

Note that this is a two pipe design & info. I found seems (iffy) to indicate this pump may have a little more lift height capacity than pumps designed for wells under 25’ deep. (I think this well may be right at 25 ft. deep.)

Am I on the right track, here, and has anyone on FR ever repaired a problem like this? I do know start capacitors are a VERY common cause of (often disastrous!!) sump pump failures. (I know all too well!) (Pun not intended!!)

P.S. I’m not finding much info. on “Water Ace” pumps online — it looks like it may be a discontinued brand of a company named “Pentair”.