You can call it what you want... it is a good shop, but mechanics who work on modern cars deal with a completely different set of issues than people who are trying to restore rusty old hulks. This applies to other types of vehicles as well. I grew up with old tractors, trucks and farm equipment.
I once had an old Johnson outboard motor with a leaky head gasket from being overheated after the water pump failed. The thing had spent most of it's life in salt water. It was a real education for me. Corroded aluminum and rusty bolts basically chemically weld themselves together in a corrosive environment like that. I had the same issue with bolt's breaking off even after spraying it down with penetrating oil and repeatedly heating with a torch and cooling with oil and water. When you are dealing with ancient mechanical devices you have to use a really good penetrating oil. And you have to use it repeatedly.
We have a 1942 Cadillac we are working on. They are very rare since production was halted in February of that year. Ours was special ordered and left the factory on November 8, 1942. It was delivered to Winnifred Filson who owned the Filson Co. which started out as an outfitter for the Alaskan gold rush in 1897.
The car sat in the mud in a cow pasture in Oregon for decades, so we have had some serious issues with corrosion. You have to be patient and let penetrating oil do its work over a period of months and in some areas... years.
The engine was seized when we got the car. After draining the engine oil, I refilled it completely to the tippy top of the carburetor and filled each cylinder with a solution of half deisel oil and half automatic transmission fluid. My goal was to have no internal void in the engine other than the cooling system that was not filled with the solution. I kept it topped off for a few months. After we drained it, refilled it with fresh engine oil and replaced some ignition parts, the engine started right up. Even the rings and valve train loosened up enough to get good compression.
There were not any moving part of the car that were not rusted together. The advantage has been that the car doesn't have any loose parts that rattle when it is being driven down the road; it is extremely solid. This is unlike so many frame off restorations where people forget to reassemble using lock-tight. They turn into rattle traps after all the effort that is put into them. Fortunately, the sheet metal that they used in 1942 was a much heavier gauge than sheet metal used these days and the car never left Western Washington and Oregon, so the body panels other than a few areas around the rocker panels were not rusted completely through.
Concur with the penetrating oil solution. Many mechanics get in a rush with the oldies and start snapping bolts not realizing those parts have been together for decades. Last thing I ever want to do is thread repair as it’s a royal PITA. Patience and perseverance will pay dividends as parts for some of those vehicles are difficult if not impossible to come by.
Found Kroil a few years back that worked like a charm and saw some “new” stuff the other day that’s in a yellow bottle that I wouldn’t mind trying out. Half diesel/tranny fluid solution has been around as long as I can remember but not many younguns know about it.