Posted on 11/17/2020 1:40:48 PM PST by fwdude
Okay, here’s my situation. Have an old 1970 model GM car that runs but need minor restoration items and some mechanical. I’ve run into roadblocks with local mechanics, who either want a quick and profitable project, or a full rebuild, but doesn’t want to work on problems piecemeal. That describes the bigger auto mechanics and chains around town.
I would love to get my hands into it, learning in the process, but don’t have the capital equipment needed or the time or inclination, so don’t go there.
Does anyone have any off-the-beaten-path recommendations for individuals, perhaps hobbyists, who have a passion for older cars and who would be willing to work at their own pace on a project car like mine? I’m in the D/FW area, but would really prefer someone in the westernmost area, preferable Tarrant County or further west.
Thanks for any help in this. I don’t want to see this car in the derby.
They still have auto shop in NC high schools.
Contact Shorty and explain to him what you are trying to do. He will hook you up or at least give you a direction. Shorty is a perfectionist.
https://shortyscustompaint.com/pages/about-us
OK, I sent who I use for mechanical. For body work, Detroit Customs in Sache (even further from you) did some work for me a dozen or more years ago. No current knowlege of them. Since then, I’ve used the chain places that are closer.
I have a 68 olds 98 with the 455 rocket, done all the work myself.New wheel and master cylinder, one new brake hub, new timing chain gear and water pump, new radiator and heater core, new carb, 68,000 original miles.
They still have auto shop in Plano Senior High.
Give me a tip on posting photos on here. I have some on my device and on my cloud drive, but how do you get them here?
Sounds like you want something for nothing.
If you can’t afford the car, sell it to someone who can, or someone who has the talent to fix it up themselves.
Disclaimer: I’m a craftsman who is endlessly fending off people who want my me to work for nothing.
Going over the engine, for starters. I want a pretty good mechanical position first, and then the exterior, and then interior.
I’m suspecting a blown head gasket. Want to keep the engine if possible without a switch out. Soul of the car and all.
Ah, you’ve got a real fuel miser there. :>)
You definitely brought back some memories.
We had a ‘69 GTO (standard 350 HP 400 engine, 3-speed auto...Dad would’ve gotten the base level Judge, but Mom didn’t want to relearn how to drive a stick!!!), a ‘72 Chevy Kingswood Estate (402 motor - disappointed that Dad didn’t get the 454) and a ‘78 Buick Estate Wagon (403 motor - the biggest one available that year). All were similarly efficient with fuel, meaning that we almost single-handedly supported OPEC. Needless to say, the GTO was the most fun.
I can’t justify the investment in capital equipment for one, or two jobs at the most.
1970 Buick Estate Wagon, 454-V8 with 4-bbl.
Something like this one?
I don’t trust anyone who poses with a low-rider. Sorry, call me judgmental.
Yep, but mine’s green.
Like some one else said, get a set of wrenches and dig in, there is enough self help videos on the net to get you through anything.
I have some experience with old cars and would volunteer to do it for free but I live in Belvidere, N.J. so it would be a bit too far to commute. Plus I am 80 years old and work a bit slowly these days. Good luck with your projact.
454?
Is the engine a chevy transplant.
Buick had 455.
You describe my 65 Willys very well.
Various photos and video of it and other stuff:
My problem is that I am picky and when I find one thing wrong then another and then another.
Too much influence from a perfectionist uncle and too many Monk reruns.
I got a line on a retired guy not far from me who restores old jeeps from a fellow in my area with a super cream puff immaculately restored CJ7. I drove by his place and saw a few Wranglers outside a small building. I found a few reviews and all good there. The Willys is almost to the point where it will have to go off for a few bigger jobs that were always in the plan.
The CJ7 is an even better example. Stripped to the frame. It powdercoated nicely. One day the tub will be blasted, patch welded, and coated. It won’t be perfect but good enough to fool someone from a distance.
I kept finding something rusted, broken, or grimy. The engine was blown when I got it, therefore at a decent price.
When they picked up the tub, I told them it could be the lowest priority thing around. I checked in a couple weeks ago to make sure all was well and to be notified when the blasting was done to assess what’s next.
Friday I am off and will be out that way and drop in.
It is a very busy shop. They do all the big jobs for USC and who knows who else. Nice people. The owner is a really cool guy. They’ve done a lot for me over the past several years.
Yep.
That is just foolish.
To start off with, if you suspect a blown headgasket, when you pull the heads, send them out for a valve job and have them mag fluxed to make sure they are not cracked, if ok, then you can go ahead with new gaskets. Also before pulling heads, you want to do a compression test on each cylinder, Just curious, why do you suspect a blown head gasket?
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