Posted on 08/02/2019 6:25:29 PM PDT by SamAdams76
Like seemingly everybody else in America, I have spent the vast majority of this brutally hot summer sitting underneath a fan in my air-conditioned apartment and clutching a sweaty can of White Claw spiked seltzer. Available in flavors like mango, black cherry, and grapefruit, these slim cans of refreshing sparkling water are spiked with a potent 5% alcohol content, and theyre the hottest cold drink in the country.
This particular brand of spiked seltzer has inspired a truly unique devotion among its fans, dominating more than half of the rapidly growing spiked seltzer market, becoming the subject of countless memes, and taking over Instagram feeds. Comedian Trevor Wallace, known for his goofy Facebook videos, has racked up millions of views on Facebook and YouTube with a video about guys who drink White Claw, inspiring the infamous AINT NO LAWS WHEN YOURE DRINKIN CLAWS, BABY rallying cry that can be heard ringing across summer barbecues.
Why people like White Claw isnt really a mystery, especially during steamy summer months. Its lighter and more refreshing than a beer, has less hangover-inducing sugar than a fruity sangria, and has a much more trendy connotation than wine coolers, a time-honored favorite of high schoolers. As Eaters own Jaya Saxena notes, spiked seltzer also boasts a strong veneer of health and wellness thanks to a low calorie and carbohydrate count, and being free of bogeyman ingredients like gluten and artificial flavors. Its got a universal appeal thats able to cut across dietary restrictions, booze preferences, and perhaps most uniquely, the surprisingly fraught gender politics of malt beverages. Exemplifying this cross-over is Ben Shea, a self-identified bro, who recently told Business Insider that White Claw is ridiculously good. If Im at a party now and someone offers me an IPA or a White Claw, I definitely take a White Claw I do dude things and get stoked and all that. But I also just feel comfortable saying I like White Claw and that its good.
The White Claw boom isnt without precedent. Its just the latest in a decades-long parade of sweet, low-proof beverages that have captivated the attention of the American drinker. Its just that this specific spiked seltzer has somehow managed to avoid falling into the toxic marketing tropes that have long dominated the beverage industry. It falls into a sweet spot directly in between the hypermasculine absurdity of Liquid Death canned water and the hyperfeminine inanity of White Girl Rose. Everyone gets to enjoy the fizzy, intoxicating joy of White Claw, and thats a pretty far cry from where we were in the 1990s, when pretty much any malt beverage that wasnt brewed from barley and hops was derided as bitch beer.
The lineage of White Claw can be traced back to the syrupy-sweet Bartles & Jaymes wine coolers that originated in the 1980s, but a more direct comparison is Zima. Introduced in 1993 by the Coors Brewing Company, Zima was wildly popular, with 70% of American drinkers admitting to sipping a chilly Zima in the 90s. But it was also widely ridiculed for proving instantly popular with young women, which led to its reputation as a girly-man drink. It has long been considered the very opposite of macho, Slates Brendan Koerner wrote in 2008. A drink that fragile coeds swill while giving each other pedicures.
And it wasnt as if Zima didnt try to appeal to men, either. In early Zima commercials, a suave man in a white suit touts the beverage as zomething different than a beer or wine cooler, the kind of drink that will help you woo a woman at the bar with its sophisticated flavors. Another commercial from 1998 depicts a man running away from a vicious (and tiny) dog. He finds refuge in a bar, orders a Zima, and when the dog gets into the bar and bites him on the ass, it freezes instantly thanks to the beverages inherently refreshing nature. But despite those efforts, Zima never took off with male drinkers, which could have something to do with how much time comedians and talk show hosts like David Letterman spent making fun of the crap. The brand tried a number of different Zima products that would appeal to men, including the Zima XXX which boasted a higher alcohol content than its predecessor, but they all flopped.
Once Zima fell out of fashion, a host of sweet successors came along trying to replicate that success for the long term, but none managed to shake the bitch beer label. Smirnoff Ice gained popularity in the late 1990s, and quickly became known as a drink for sorority girls. Further solidifying its reputation as a beverage for less serious drinkers, it ended up being the punishment in a drinking game called Icing, described by CBS News as the nations biggest viral drinking game back in 2010, that involves making ones friend kneel and chug after finding a hidden bottle of Smirnoff Ice.
Then came Mikes Hard Lemonade, which debuted in 1999 from Mark Anthony Brands, the same company that now manufactures White Claw Hard Seltzer. In 2017, Mikes Hard Lemonade announced that it would shift its marketing efforts away from its original target audience of female drinkers. According to Forbes, the brand decided to hyper-focus on attracting millennial males with a series of new advertisements that featur[ed] young males opening a bottle of Mikes and being engulfed in a glow of happiness. Despite those efforts, there are countless threads on forums like Reddit where men debate and hand-wring over whether or not Mikes is actually a girly drink.
But White Claw has taken some demonstrable steps toward marketing its products in a way that doesnt inherently categorize it as a womans drink. The white can avoids the bright, feminine-coded colors seen on similar beverages like canned rose. In the brands Instagram posts, men are pictured drinking White Claws as they show off their punching combinations, catch footballs, and kayak. Meanwhile, women arent just depicted sipping White Claws while they get their pedicures, theyre taking the drink to play frisbee at the beach and go boating.
That shrewd approach appears to be paying off, and it seems like White Claw could avoid the fate of its predecessors. Instead of sipping the cans at home in shame, dudes proudly proclaim their love for spiked seltzer and proudly pose with White Claw tallboys on Instagram. People are paying five bucks each at bars, and ordering cocktails served in White Claw cans, doctored with rum, ginger liqueur, and black cherry puree. And thousands of people, regardless of their gender, are posting selfies with White Claws in hand.
In a broader sense, White Claws marketing is selling its fans a lifestyle, one that both men and women want to be a part of. Its what you drink when youre chilling at the beach, partying at music festivals, and of course, earning enough money to live your best carefree life. Its an upscale, aspirational brand, one that doesnt carry the same trashy, low-budget connotations as other malt liquor beverages like wine coolers and Mikes Hard Lemonade, with sleek, gender-neutral branding and an implied promise that its a little bit more virtuous than those other drinks. Hell, you can even buy it at Whole Foods.
Even as canned wines and cocktails like caipirinhas and whiskey highballs have their moment in the sun, the distinct appeal of White Claw and other hard seltzers is much more universal. As the success of fizzy water brands like La Croix, Bubly, and Spindrift demonstrate, everyone loves fizzy water, but spiked seltzers runaway success is about much more than just an obsession with bubbly beverages. As spirits historian Christine Sismondo told Salon, people are looking for a drinker not a thinker during the summer months, and it seems likely that feeling goes far beyond the flavors in a drink.
While its wishful to think that the success of White Claw represents a bigger shift in the way brands market to gender rather than lifestyle, its more realistic to recognize it as being indicative of the 2019 type of hypermasculinity that is currently en vogue. Its a drink for a more evolved bro, the type of man who isnt afraid to talk about his macros or brew kombucha. The rise of crossfit alongside paleo and keto diets gave men permission to be more publicly and proudly health and image conscious than most of their predecessors. The 2019 bro hasnt successfully bucked patriarchal values, but he has managed to spruce them up with face masks, potentially disordered eating, and an open and honest affection for spiked seltzer.
If there is something positive to be derived from all this, its that the outdated and misogynist notion of bitch beer could be dying. Considering that dude-branded butt wipes and pens for her exist, its nice that we can at least kick back and get White Claw Wasted, not as separate genders, but as human beings. And the additional bonus, of course, is that White Claw actually tastes really fucking good. In these crazy modern times, that can sometimes be enough.
YES, it was Zima.
Now it's White Claw
“In order to convince more men to try the product, Zima Gold (which claimed to have the taste of bourbon) was released in 1995, and it was a huge failure.”
I actually liked Zima Gold. I don’t miss it though...
(snicker ... sorry, couldn't resist.)
My oldest son LOVES White Claw. I give him endless amounts of crap about it, including sending the cartoon I posted above to his not-so-smartphone at least once a day.
As far as: “Like seemingly everybody else in America, I have spent the vast majority of this brutally hot summer”
we have the author’s ignorance and their indoctrination by the media to thank for his idiotic idea that ALL of America has had a “brutally hot summer”.
My own experience here on the East Coast as well as my relatives in Southern California is that this summer has NOT been as hot as many others.
My utility bills for June & July of this year ran more than 30% less than June and July of last year.
Sorry tastes like piss water
Ive tried it. Its okay. Ill take my Paulaner, thanks.
I tried one of these only because it was a free sample at a beer tasting at my high school.
Not good. Tastes like carbonated fruit water. A little stronger that the la croi things, and just as bad of a flavor. Also, carbonated water is just dumb.
I ordered it in a Denny’s once. Didn’t think too much of it but it wasn’t terrible either.
+1
Cool bottle, didn't care for the contents, though.
Found out much later that it was spawned by Congress's increasing the excise tax on wine.
Zima was a fermented grain beverage that avoided the wine tax increase.
And consumers as well, as it turned out.
Saw some $5 a can wines in the store. Some of these trends make no sense to me.
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