Posted on 05/08/2018 8:55:36 PM PDT by MtnClimber
I met Kurt Diemberger maybe 20 years ago at a slide show in Boulder, Colorado. I had already ready read the book about the tragedy of his climb on K2. This is the song his partner, Julie Tullis liked and which Kurt named the book after. Details of the climb, song at link.
A British woman who began serious mountain climbing after age 40 tells her life story, with special emphasis on how she made a new career as an award-winning mountain cinematographer in what were to be the last five years of her life. She died in 1986, descending from the summit of K-2. While her Himalayan expeditions occupy the last half of the book and are told with the unique viewpoint of a woman photographer, the early pages are also unusual. Julie and her husband Terry Tullis operated a rock-climbing school near Tunbridge Wells that offered programs to handicapped and disturbed children and adults. Her experiences suggest how much is lacking in American programs for blind and emotionally disturbed youths. Her chapter 'Why' gives reasons for choosing adventurous paths that other women will find valid. Julie Tullis was one of the world's most accomplished female Himalayan climbers. She died high on K2 in 1986 along with several other strong climbers during descent from the summit, pinned down at highest camp by fierce weather. This is her autobiography, published posthumously. It includes a chapter written by Peter Gillman on the 1986 K2 tragedy.
This was the fateful season on K2 where Al Rouse, Maurice & Liliane Barrard, Renato Casarotto, Tadeusz Piotrowski, and other good climbers perished on the mountain. This book describes many of Tullis' climbs and her film-making partnership with Kurt Diemberger, Tullis' very close friend. Climbs discussed include Peru Cordillera Blanca Huascaran, Nanga Parbat, Mount Everest, K2 and Karakoram, Broad Peak, Yosemite, etc. In addition to being autobiographical, this book presents many details about the personality and methods and abilities of the famous mountaineer, Kurt Diemberger. Kurt Diemberger (born 1932 in Austria), is the only remaining person alive that has made the first ascents on two mountains over 8,000 metres. In 1957, he made the first ascent of Broad Peak and in 1960, the first ascent of Dhaulagiri. Diemberger was also the last person to see Hermann Buhl alive before he fell through a cornice on Chogolisa. Diemberger was one of only two survivors in the 1986 K2 Disaster. On August 4, 1986, Diemberger and Julie Tullis reached the summit of K2 very late in the day. Shortly after starting their descent, Julie fell -- dragging Diemberger with her. Fortunately, they somehow stopped from going over the edge and spent the night above 8,000 metres. They managed to reach Camp IV the next day, where they were forced to share a tent with six other climbers after their tent had collapsed from hurricane force winds. Unfortunately, Julie died later that night, possibly from HACE, and only one other of climbers survived the descent with Diemberger. Diemberger is still active in the mountaineering world and works on film projects with his daughter.
This is true.
I agree "Hejira" (w/Jaco & Pat Metheny) is her masterpiece although many would say "Blue" is her best.
As an aside, I am fortunate to have a "dry" CDR copy of "Blue" burned 1:1 direct from the true, studio master tapes before the dreaded reverb was added for the commercial release - amazing sonics & clarity and a precious gift from a friend who remastered the album.
Mt. Washington has a cog RR too.
I love Joni as a musician and as a wordsmith, while knowing she would hate me for being a conservative. Like many very successful Liberal people, Joni has been very outspoken about her political views and seems quite intolerant about opposing views. I just have to compartmentalize, appreciate her talent, and leave it at that. Many entertainers of the past have become this way.
Todd Rundgren, another of my musical heroes has become almost as nasty about conservatives as Barry Manilow. To hear Todd say Trump supporters should stay away from his shows kind of hurt, even though I am very unlikely to go to any of his shows today. Todd can say what he pleases. It’s just an opinion. I will always have his albums and the memories of growing up to his music.
I intended to write 8,000 meter peak. It is around 26,000 ft at the summit.
For many people, Joni is an acquired taste, something you become accustomed to if it suits your style. For most people, there is quite a lot of zipping, zinging and pinging going on, making the melody hard to keep up with. She will switch from singing melody to accentuating the percussion, or the whole notes, then back again after a burst of choir.
The only other singer who came close though no where as inventive or popular was Mini Ripperton, with her ‘Lovin’ You’ song. Stevie Wonder ‘discovered’ her.
Now THAT song, was indeed tedious!
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