Ah, that answers the question I was about to post: Are the pins threaded on both ends? (This is my 1st Ford brake job.) I think they may have been, on our other vehicle [Subaru], but I am a bit hazy on that. Information overload occurred some years back, for me!
That (threads in the “inner” end) may explain my problem, because I’m finding it hard to believe that 3 days of PB Blaster applications, plus hammer tapping, would not break loose the outer threads. Plus, what you are saying about heat, I was thinking too: These parts heat and cool quite a bit in use... but evidently not enough to keep the threads from locking up big-time.
But, if the inner threads (on the end away from the hex head) are the problem, there’s no way to get the penetrant to them, so far as I can see...
Would also recommend, for process understanding a view on youtube. Be specific in search... say “ _ _94 (or whatever) Model Ford brake pad replacement”.
BTW- if it is the first replace of pads, then the rotor should not be worn out. When you finally get the caliper off, can look at the rotor and see how much remains. Some rather graphic examples of completely worn down rotors, can be seen by searching photos worn brake rotors.
One car had, from OEM pads rotors, one pad change. Then the next pad change (130K miles, btw) was down to the metal on the driving wheel side of the front wheel drive car. The driving wheel (usu. driver side front wheel) takes more off on braking and also consequently wears the rotor more as well on a front wheel drive. By the second (overdue) pad replace— the rotor needed replacing also- which means the caliper bracket itself has to come off to get the rotor off. Just info— take a look at it. If it’s a RWD Ford or whatever, different wear patterns.