To your point, As far as I know, East and West Coasts measure the front face. Hawaiian waves are still measured from the backside.
And yes, I’ve BODYsurfed the Pipeline (and Backyards) for years, and the energy is so intense, you are just along for the ride. Mine primary thoughts are always 1) don’t stop swimming and 2) take a deep breath and 3) don’t go over the falls.
UH Rainbows ‘82
I didn't know that about Hawaiian waves vs West Coast. If you're correct, that would make Waimea Bay at 60-80 ft. face on a big day. Never heard that size. I remember as large as 40ft at Waimea in past surfing magazines, but then I've been out of touch.
"And yes, I’ve BODYsurfed the Pipeline (and Backyards) for years, and the energy is so intense, you are just along for the ride. Mine primary thoughts are always 1) don’t stop swimming and 2) take a deep breath and 3) don’t go over the falls."
Am I correct in thinking you bodysurfed on smaller days? I watch a lot of shows about surfing, but never saw a bodysurfer on Pipeline's big days. Har, "don't go over the falls." Yup, that's was kills 'em at Pipeline. Was I right about Pipeline causing the most deaths of any wave?
"UH Rainbows ‘82"
What does that stand for?