The overall tire height is within a fraction of an inch of stock, so I didn't change the final drive ratio. The slightly shorter sidewalls do give a somewhat stiffer ride, but not enough to damage anything (or jar any of my fillings loose).
Posted on 09/09/2016 7:30:44 AM PDT by MeneMeneTekelUpharsin
To inform the public, it is known among auto industry experts that oversize rims, 20", 22" and 24", etc. eventually destroy transmissions, clutches, seals and axel bearings, etc. due to the torque factor required to turn those. Don't know if the MSM or other media have reported this, but it is a fact. Those who read here and seek the truth have another tidbit to share with family and friends.
Basic high school physics says this might be right. The larger the wheel,the greater the distance covered with each revolution, meaning more energy needs to be expended for each revolution. Try this on a bicycle where you are the engine and you’ll find yourself working harder with each revolution of the pedals. Since the makers of cars design the drive trains to function with wheels of a specific diameter, it stands to reason that larger wheels will put more stress on drive trains.
I lived in Italy and drove a Lancia Delta which had narrower performance sidewalls. This was before the ultra narrow of today. I should have taken a hint when I bought it as the owner said he would replace two tires that had sidewall blisters.
This was in Napoli and a lot of the roads were pretty rough. The only time in my life where I hit potholes and had blowouts. I was buying a tire every 2 to 4 months. In the 3.5 years we were there I bought more Than 2 complete sets. I tried Pirelli, Dunlap it did not matter, sidewall blisters or blowouts. Never had any tire issues with it.
Eventually We got a Fiat Tipo which had regular tires and drove it most of the time.
Correction, I never had any tire issues with the Tipo.
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As an owner of a quantity of Jeeps, I wish to assure you that they have no “ball joints.”
Their steering “knuckles” consist of cylindrical protrusions that use needle bearings. (and they are rather costly to replace)
You are guilty of 'thinking white'. Bet you are intolerant of the 'knockout game' as well.
The overall tire height is within a fraction of an inch of stock, so I didn't change the final drive ratio. The slightly shorter sidewalls do give a somewhat stiffer ride, but not enough to damage anything (or jar any of my fillings loose).
Interesting!
It will appear really foolish once it runs over an immovable object.
I remember back in the ‘80’s when the fad was small diameter and really wide tires. It gave a car the Flintstones look.
Back in high school, I put A/T tires on my pickup. I didn't care about keeping the speedometer accurate, I just had the shop install the largest tires that would fit without rubbing - and the F-100 had *big* wheel wells. The resulting change in final drive ratio made the truck accelerate more slowly. That was with a 3-speed automatic, and the transmission suffered no ill effects. Today's super-complicated eight-speed automatics are probably a different ballgame. I know that you have to have the powertrain control computer tweaked by the dealer service department if you run taller tires - allegedly to keep the speedometer accurate. Who knows, though - it may also change shift points and other stuff.
This image (courtesy of tirerack.com) shows the "plus" sizing common for wheels and tires. I've done up to a "plus two" and not noticed any issues. I think the article is referring to drivers who make much more radical modifications.
My ‘69 Torino GT came with Cragars on it, I traded into a turnkey hot-rod. Summer of ‘78, great job, hot gal, hot car. Ah, memories...
That may be true, but the effect would be negligible. And it would be zero when not accelerating.
Low profile tires also suffer from a narrowed range of acceptable tire pressure to avoid a sudden catastrophic failure. Under-inflation alloys excess sidewall flex to generate heating and exceed allowable materials bending stress. Over-inflation increases likely-hood of pot hole or road debris inspired belt damage, by not sufficiently distributing the impact energy.
Concentrating the spinning mass at the periphery of the wheel/tire combination for the same overall diameter or weight, would increase the applied force required to accelerate or brake the wheel, and thus the vehicle. This increases affects forces on drive-line or braking components.
This doesn’t make sense.....however the tires are hideously expensive and wear quickly, so I wouldn’t want them.
That’s exactly the type of car I was talking about. Thanks for posting the picture. I still don’t know how to do that.
Sure they do, they just don’t last very long.
But I get your meaning.
Taking my Wrangler down to around a 1.5 to 2” lift with the Old Man Emu kit, and going to 33s.
That should be able to get me to any fishing place or dove hunting place I want to go to, and it wont tear as much stuff up on the front end.
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