Surfers Ride 40-Foot Waves at Mavericks in Half Moon Bay

NBC Bay Area ^ | Michelle Roberts

[Finny]

Incidentally, I am not a surfer! Just a player-in-the-waves, but grew up around surfers and still know many.

[Skooz]

Bfl

[skeeter]

Lighthouse point in Santa Cruz. Old Jack O’Neil first used the surfboard leash there back in the 50s. I believe its where he put his eye out with one, too.

[Finny]

Ah! Not all that familiar with Santa Cruz myself as a tourist, but recall that the “real” surfers I knew held that area in high regard.

[skeeter]

I took surfing up when Tom Curren was still champ, and took it up again with my son when he became old enough.

He's working in Sacto now - I'll still go out from time to time but never really enjoyed it as much by myself.

[T-Bone Texan]

Lots of large sharks near HMB.

[Finny]

I'll bet! There are plenty a bit further south, too, off of Montana de Oro (just south of Morro Bay) and Avila, and then on down toward Pt. Conception, Pt. Sal and all that.

Me, I like nice big swimming pools.

[Hot Tabasco]

the crash of the wave at the end knocked the cellphone out of my hand and it was lost.

No problem, I was riding the same wave just out of your camera range and picked it up as I surfed by you on your wipe out.........The camera was totaled by the salt water but I have the video of my "surf by" when you were waiving for assistance..........Sorry I couldn't stop to help.

[21twelve]

I read a real interesting book years ago called something like “The Wave”. Some scientist was doing research on large waves and their hazards on shipping and infrastructure.

During the science of it all it turns into traveling all over the world with the experts. The surfers. They too were trying to catch the biggest wave and document it. IIRC there was an undocumented ride of close to 100-foot wave - but that may have just been rumor.

Real cool story. These guys would use a buddy on a jet ski to get them out there in the heavy seas, and also act as a safety person. Pretty amazing what they were doing.