Posted on 08/10/2015 12:23:59 AM PDT by nickcarraway
he Beach Boys still provide summer’s soundtrack but headlines suggest it’s not a great time to be surfing. There has been a spate of high-profile shark attacks on surfers in the US, Australia and South Africa. And surfers themselves have been exposed for bullying novices out of the water.
Landlubbers may conclude you need to to be slightly unhinged to entrust – let alone devote – your life to a thin slab of fibreglass in the watery unknown. William Finnegan sort of agrees. And he, more than anyone, should know. He has been surfing for half a century, chasing waves all over the world, and has returned with a tale of enchantment, obsession, terror and transcendence.
Best holiday reads 2015 From a study of beachcombing to the year’s best crime fiction, leading authors recommend favourites and reveal what books they’ll be packing for the summer holidays Read more He doesn’t mind if you call surfing nuts. Just don’t call it a sport. “It’s an addiction. It can take over your life.”
Finnegan is an author and staff writer with the New Yorker best known for covering conflicts in Somalia, Sudan and Mexico, and gritty corners of America and South Africa. War and peace, life and death, policy failures and injustice: serious topics treated with a social conscience and a distinctive brand of granular, brainy reportage.
(Excerpt) Read more at theguardian.com ...
I have no idea who this Finnegan dude is.
LSD and Pink Floyd?
I surf on my tablet daily....
Will some other reporter whose name I never heard before today come out as a golfer?.....parcheesi player?....stamp collector? So some guy likes to surf and we’re expected to be enthralled by his oceanic activities? Sorry...I read about two paragraphs and started falling asleep.
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