I don’t know the answer to your question, but I’d check the grounds to every cable you can find.
I have a similar era Chrysler and all the modules are VIN-encoded so they can’t be swapped between vehicles and supposedly can’t be reprogrammed, even by a dealer.
I don’t know if this was used on Dodges of the era.
But it sounds like there is something else going on than a problem with the ECM.
No junk yard. Get a rebuilt one. All have to be reprogrammed. Either way your looking at some bucks. Minimum of $900.
There are some Dodge forums, maybe post a question there.
Here’s one:
https://www.allpar.com/forums/forums/ram-pickups-commercial-trucks.6/
2) Have the O2 Sensor(s) ever been replaced ?
3) Have the Spark Plugs ever been replaced ?
4) Have the Plug Wires ever been replaced ?
I may have more ? after getting these answered.
If You need Parts go Here
Also have Autozone Test the Battery AND Charging System. Fuel Injection ECM’s need a MINIMUM of 10.8 volts or they don’t function properly.
Durangoclub.net is a great place for info on not justDurangos but links to Dodge trucks.
Dodge trucks are very sensitive to battery problems, ground connections.
I had a similar problem with my Durango and it was a bad battery cable.
Check your Oxygen or Air Flow sensors. I recently had the same problem with an Outback. Every time I went up or down a hill, made a sharp turn, or accelerated, it would stall. I found a broken wire on the Mass Air Flow sensor. Replaced it and now it runs just fine. Good Luck.
Tour truck is OBD II. It has extensive built in diagnostics, get a full readout first.
You can also get a reader that wirelessly connects to a laptop and give you real time info on what is happening while the engine is running, and which sensors are inop or out of range.
That said, Dodge has a BIG problem with their electronics. Best get to a Dodge truck forum and ask questions there. It may end up you need to get rid of the truck if you can’t do the work yourself.
This may or may not help, but since the problems are multiple and electrical in nature you should probably take a look at the grounding cable and wire(s), particularly where they are secured to the frame, inner fender well, etc. Over time, corrosion can cause bad connections.
My first efforts at fixing ‘random vehicle electrical gremlins’ are always aimed at the electrical grounding system. After checking the connection at the battery, I completely detach the other end of the main ground cable from the frame and use a wire brush to remove rust scale and any other corrosion from the vehicle frame and the cable’s mounting lug. I then reattach it with a new bolt and washer. If there is any sign of breakage or weakness in the cable or its mounting lug I replace the entire ground cable. I then do the same thing with the smaller gage wires at any/all secondary grounding locations. Those wires can e hard to completely replace so I usually settle for attaching new mounting lugs to the existing wire if there is any question about its integrity.
Depending on the vehicle, there may be several secondary grounds at various locations. They are usually on the frame or an inner fender well in the engine compartment.
It sounds like a lot of work but it’s really not that bad, and if it fixes the ‘gremlins’ then you’ve saved the cost of one or more expensive electronic components. If it doesn’t, then at least you’ve verified that a ‘bad ground’ is not the problem.
O2 and Mass air sensors first to check. Get a code reader and/or a mechanic with experience in 21st century electronics
I seriously doubt it’s the ECM as the vehicle is running. Just don’t shoot a parts cannon at it and hope for the best as there are many things and thousands of dollars to spend shotgunning drivability issues. Pay someone with the proper diagnostic skills and equipment to do real time scanning and you will be dollars ahead.
When the EMP happens........I’ll drive my 71 cutlass supreme, and leave my 2014 RAM 1500, dead, in the driveway.
How old is the battery? Can you swap batteries with another vehicle?
Take it to a professional.
Hi. I ‘ve had a little experience with a bad ecm but it was on a 2000 Ford mustang. They can be reprogrammed to work in your vehicle. I found a used one on eBay for 30 bucks. Mechanic charged me 75$ to reprogram. The reason I knew it was bad was that the codes said ecm not responding.
If you want to change the computer, you have to ensure it is one programmed for your vehicle. Could be oxygen sensors or some other sensor, but the computer is the last resort. Go to Autozone or Pep Boys and buy/borrow a code reader, plug it in, get the codes and look them up yourself. It's a lot cheaper than starting to replace things willy nilly.
Knowing nothing more than what you posted, I would suggest the simple and free procedure of disconnecting the negative then the positive battery cables on your battery. Clean the terminals on the battery well and also on the ends of the cables. Leave them off for about 10 minutes (the length of time needed to clean the terminals) and then reconnect the positive cable then the negative cable.
Test as necessary. It might work to reset things. It worked for me once on a Ford that was running rough and weird. And I have heard of others who have had success with this.
The downside is that you have to reprogram all your radio presets.
From what I understand after paying the dealer to replace an ECM on my wife’s car some years ago...you can get a new ECM much cheaper at Autozone, Napa, etc.
This may not be your problem, but I’m posting it for the benefit of all.
We’ve had three vehicles either do odd things electrically or simply not start. All three issues were related to wood chucks chewing wires bare of insulation causing them to cross short.
I’m selling a car tomorrow where the cute little fellow chewed #2 oxygen sensor wire bare, it touched ground, and now the service engine lite stays on - the code is for the O2 sensor. Replacing the sensor & resetting the code did not make the service engine lite go off, it still codes for the sensor. Car runs great, gets over 40 mpg.
They will also get up under where gas tanks are and chew off fuel pump wires.
Another animal for my elimination list.