Whaaa??? A bit esoteric.
How much have you had to drink today? ... :-) ...
Well when i was framing always use the same tape measure so it its wrong at lest its consistent
oh yeah i never ever use the ruler on any powersaw table use a tape from fence to front of blade and back of blade to make sure its parallel
I have no experience with “digital locators”, but I’m curious - working in wood, what kind of tolerance are you looking for ?
We have a local enterprise with both metal and wood shops that have numerically controlled machinery you can join by the month. There are a number of these springing up all across the country. (3-D printer too)
http://www.techshop.ws/
FWIW, I use a Wixey digital angle gauge on my table saw blade and I’m very happy with it.
Don’t know anything about a digital locator, however.
Engrave the size difference ON THE BLADE. You can’t misplace it, and it’s handy every time you use it.
1. Always use scrap wood to make test cuts.
2. Cut slightly long and then do one or two finish cuts to size.
3. Wood cut on Tuesday may be too short or long on Thursday when doing the final fitting due to humidity changes. Control your workshop temperature and humidity if accuracy and precision are critical.
4. You need to choose the right wood for a project. Something sensitive to humidity like a soft pine won’t work well when making a puzzle box with tight joints.
Time consuming, but very, very accurate.
I always do this with my radial arm saw, don't give a hoot about the saw's various markings for precision work.
Can’t say I’m familiar with a saw without a locator that’s easily adjustable, but another (cheap) option is to have it preset for your thickest of blades, and then for thinner blades have a few fence-spacers (the length of the fence) available. Each spacer need only be a thickness of 1/2 the difference of blade thickness.
I have their digital angle gauge and the digital height gauge on my planer and have found both to be accurate and very handy.
I have several Wixey Gage’s. A magnetic angle gage for setting the blade at an angle. A depth gage for setting up my router and an angle gage for my chop saw. They all work very well but you have to remember to remove the batteries for long term storage.
If you are trying to set the width from the blade to the fence, try this. Set the fence at 2” and make a cut. Measure the width, if it is 2” your setting is correct, if not set the pointer to the measurement you got, then readjust to 2” and make another cut. When you measure again you should get 2”.
I use a Wixey angle gauge to check my table saw and miter saw for true 90°. Works well. Turn it on, set it on the table, hit the zero-set button; then move the Wixey to the flat surface of the blade. Magnets in the device will stick to the blade. Take the reading.
This explains why your roof leaked.
I have a Powermatic saw and I use 10” commercial blades - all 1/8” kerfs. I have used some of the ultra-thin rip blades but . . . why? By using professional blades my fence and gauge work together perfectly with repeatable accuracy.
Looks like an inexpensive version of the DROs I use on my lathes and manual mills. I say go for it. The price looks really good for what it is and they wouldn’t be on the market if they were junk.
Screw machines... It is always fun when I see something apparently simple sitting around and hand it to someone and ask them how it’s made. “You mean that machine needs all that just to make this little screw?”
I went the other way. Started out as a welder, got through college, became an aerospace engineer, then quit that and went back and started a machine shop.
The only time I use one of the installed measuring devices is after making a cut and finding the material still has too much on it - then I use the markings to trim down to size.
When I try to use them exclusively, I can be heard saying, "I wonder what's wrong here - I cut this piece 3 times and it's still to short."