Posted on 01/16/2015 1:33:31 PM PST by Little Bill
Whaaa??? A bit esoteric.
How much have you had to drink today? ... :-) ...
Well when i was framing always use the same tape measure so it its wrong at lest its consistent
oh yeah i never ever use the ruler on any powersaw table use a tape from fence to front of blade and back of blade to make sure its parallel
I have no experience with “digital locators”, but I’m curious - working in wood, what kind of tolerance are you looking for ?
We have a local enterprise with both metal and wood shops that have numerically controlled machinery you can join by the month. There are a number of these springing up all across the country. (3-D printer too)
How much have you had to drink today? ... :-) ..
Should he answer in ounces or liters ?
http://www.techshop.ws/
0.001 inch on small pieces is a good target
+/- .01, I have seen people use dial indicators during set up.
FWIW, I use a Wixey digital angle gauge on my table saw blade and I’m very happy with it.
Don’t know anything about a digital locator, however.
Engrave the size difference ON THE BLADE. You can’t misplace it, and it’s handy every time you use it.
1. Always use scrap wood to make test cuts.
2. Cut slightly long and then do one or two finish cuts to size.
3. Wood cut on Tuesday may be too short or long on Thursday when doing the final fitting due to humidity changes. Control your workshop temperature and humidity if accuracy and precision are critical.
4. You need to choose the right wood for a project. Something sensitive to humidity like a soft pine won’t work well when making a puzzle box with tight joints.
LOL
My saw has 25# Shop Fox Tee Square Fence. If you run the fence against the Blade and set zero to compensate for the blade off sets will you get the same number the second time?
Time consuming, but very, very accurate.
I always do this with my radial arm saw, don't give a hoot about the saw's various markings for precision work.
Can’t say I’m familiar with a saw without a locator that’s easily adjustable, but another (cheap) option is to have it preset for your thickest of blades, and then for thinner blades have a few fence-spacers (the length of the fence) available. Each spacer need only be a thickness of 1/2 the difference of blade thickness.
I also do that with my Radial Arm.
I have their digital angle gauge and the digital height gauge on my planer and have found both to be accurate and very handy.
Disclaimer: Opinions posted on Free Republic are those of the individual posters and do not necessarily represent the opinion of Free Republic or its management. All materials posted herein are protected by copyright law and the exemption for fair use of copyrighted works.