When the fridge gets a little cold on the inside bottom, or along the inner sides, but is not getting cold enough, if it's not low on coolant, and the compressor and fan work, etc, --- it can be the door switch.
Moisture can seep in. ruining that switch -- which typically 'works' by cutting power to the fan and sending power to the light circuit when the door is open.
When it doesn't work, when the door is in closed position, instead of the switch then being depressed and making connection in the fan circuit--- it doesn't, which is why in this instance a refrigerator can be getting a little cold at (inner) bottom or sides, but not cold enough overall, since the air isn't circulating, making the 'fridge sense it's cold enough, shutting down the compressor, etc.
The door switch often as not, if needing replacement, can be pried out of the recess they are set in, having only a few wires that will need be re-connected to a replacement switch.
Switches can be had (if going through an industrial supply house, rather than Sears, or a place which sells and services appliances ) from around $5 to $15.
Great point. Thanks! Hopefully my new fridge will perform longer than most. I opted for the stainless front due to rust complaints on the non-stainless models from the water/ice dispenser. Flawless to-date.
Interesting technical point: I just located my model’s door switches...they’re outside the fridge on the top of the hinge mounts.