Suggestions?
For dense brush, a low power scope works well. For open spaces, many people prefer the variable 3-9 power (or greater) optic. A rule of thumb to remember: the field of view (observable area) gets smaller as magnification increases.
A good scope should have: 1) coated optics, 2) quality optical glass, 3) a reticle that can be seen in low light conditions (illuminated ones are a plus), 4) windage and elevation knobs actually move with each click and don't “hang up” when adjustments are made, 5) be nitrogen filled so that the interior will not fog on the inside when subjected to large changes in temperature, and 6) the point of impact does not shift when changing magnification on variable scopes. All things consudered, you should figure on at least $200 for a quality scope. Buy a name brand.
Light gathering and light transmission are the primary factors in a quality day scope. A 30mm tube is better than the more common 25mm tube for light transmission. Likewise, quality optical glass is imperative. Coatings are applied to the glass to enhance light transmission. However, coatings are NOT a substitute for quality optical glass. The scope should be nitrogen filled to prevent internal fogging from large temperature changes.
To check a candidate scope optics, look through the wrong end of the scope against a light background. Imperfections in the optics will be more easily seen. The fewer imperfections, the better quality the scope (and higher price).
To check the reticle, cut two 1x1 inch V-cuts in a box. Rest the candidate scope in the V-cuts and look through the scope against a light background while noting the position of the reticle. Rotate the scope a full 360 degrees. The reticle should stay centered and have no observable movement about the center. Reject the scope if the reticle appears to move about the center.
One last thing are quality bases and rings. The best quality scope is nullified by poor quality bases and rings. Do not use the aluminum 8-shaped rings that allow the use of the scope or iron sights. Aluminum rings flex and do not hold zero. Do not use aluminum rings...period. The best rings are steel and are of tactical quality. They are easy to install and will hold zero under the most severe conditions.
When you install a scope, always make certain the vertical crosshair is vertical and horizontal is horizontal to the firearm. Put the rifle in a rest and check the top for horizontal level. Mount the scope loosely in the rings so it can be positioned for eye relief and horizontal level. Place a level on the elevation knob and make certain the scope is horizontal to the horizontal position of the receiver. The scope is now correctly aligned with the receiver. Adjust eye relief. Recheck horizontal levels. Tighten the screws of the scope rings.
Tools:
1. Scoped rifle. (This procedure also works with iron sights.)
2. Laser boresight (fits in chamber) in the rifle's caliber.
3. Wood dowel to remove a tight fitting laser boresight.
4. Zeroing target (http://www.mytargets.com/).
5. Ammunition for zeroing (if range is available).
6. Range distance to target: 75 to 83 feet.
Select and print the target from the website with the red and green dots centered above each other [1/2 inch grid]. Put the target in the target support so the green dot is down and the red dot is up.
Sighting is done from a bench some 75 to 83 feet away from the target.
Turn on and insert the laser boresight in the rifle chamber.
Sight-in by putting the red laser got in the center of the green dot. Move the scope crosshairs until they are in the center of the red dot.
Remove and turn off the laser boresight.
Confirm boresight zero with five shots.
Go to 100 yards and fire to confirm your zero using a zeroing target like the 100 yard big game target.