Another (this one serious): No requirement under the IRC. FYI, ANSI Stds. allow up to 800ppm carbon monoxide from ranges. And you just thought it was the tryptophan in the turkey making you sleepy.
As previously stated, "when installed and operating properly"..... Tell me when you find that. These things have a horrible track record for CO production.
Failure to ventilate the kitchen can lead to what appears to be black soot all over the house. I'm gotten lab reports back that the black stuff is charred food particles stuck to soybean cooking oil. All because of no ventilation.
If they ventilate, then it should comply with ASHRAE 62.2 for MUA. Whoever sucks air out of a home is responsible for providing MUA to replace it. Otherwise, uncompensated exhaust fans can depressurize the home and backdraft atmospherically vented appliances. These fans don't always capture all the aerosolized byproducts of cooking but they are pretty good at backdrafting open fireplaces.
I'm pretty sure you'd get "charred food particles stuck to soybean cooking oil" from electric stoves, too.
If you have black soot in your kitchen, you need a cooking class.
“I’m gotten lab reports back that the black stuff is charred food particles stuck to soybean cooking oil.”
Which you’d get from an electric stove too.
You sounds like you are way too familiar with the building codes. That is a tough world you live in. Good answer though.
***Failure to ventilate the kitchen can lead to what appears to be black soot all over the house.****
Better check your air to gas adjustments. The flame should be BLUE, not yellow.
I have never had a problem with soot from my natural gas cook stove. My mom did have trouble with her heating stove years ago when squirrls plugged up her chiminey, but she was trying to use a propane stove on nat gas with a very yellow flame. When she cleaned out the chiminey and replaced her heating stove with a nat gas one she never had another problem.
Most kitchen vent hoods do not move enough air or have high enough static pressure capability to significantly depressurize most homes.
Two exceptions:
Very large restaurant-type hoods in the 700 cfm and up range. Also downdraft vented stoves such as Jenn-Air.
Some modern homes are very tightly constructed. It is possible to depressurize them and backdraft combustion appliances fairly easily, especially if the appliances have a convection type rather than a powered exhaust.
You probably have bathroom exhaust fans and a clothes dryer, and possibly other exhausting devices. A fireplace exhausts a great deal of air while in use, a wood stove usually a good deal less. You need to figure whether the home will depressurize if all these devices happen to be in use at the same time.
It is possible to have what is called a blower-door test performed on your home to determine how tight it is. Actually a good idea for anybody, as overly leaky homes are one of the major causes of energy inefficiency. In fairly recent homes a much greater cause than insufficient insulation.
Whoever performs the blower door test should be able to tell you how much ventilation you need for a given range hood exhaust volume. For energy efficiency, if needed, the ventilation air can be brought in thru a heat exchanger wired so that is kicks on when the range hood is on and a damper closes when it is off.
BTW, a major reason not to heat your home by running the gas stove burners is that one of the major combustion gases released is water vapor. Which raises the humidity a bunch and can lead to mold growth and other problems in closets, behind furniture on exterior walls and other cooler parts of the home.