[driftdiver]

that last one would be downright scary. that guy looks pretty darn small

[Daffynition]

Should we ping our resident photographer ....and issue a challenge?

[Proud_USA_Republican]

I grew up on east Oahu which has some of the best body surfing, but also some of the nastiest "shore break" beaches on the planet. Shore breaks are where the sand depth rises quickly from deep to shallow so the waves break right on the beach. Many tourists who don't know how to deal with these waves end up in the hospital quickly, including major spinal cord and neck injuries.

The trick is NOT take these waves standing up. Just like surfers diving under waves as they are paddling out, you dive low into the bottom of the wave and let it pass over you. You do that, and its no problem.

If you stand up and let it hit you, it can feel like a car accident. Alot of the injuries occur when you do that, and then the wave sucks you up to the top and drops you back down. We call it "going over the falls". I've seen people drop head first from a top of a large wave onto a waterless patch of sand by this because the waves crest right at the edge of the beach. Many had to be taken away in an ambulance.

Also seen plenty of males and females get their surfshorts/bikinis literally ripped off their bodies from the force of "going over the falls". Always amusing, and sad, when you see some poor soul dragging themselves out of the water and doing the birthday suit thing.