Posted on 12/02/2008 5:35:48 PM PST by Lorianne
The name alone would make a stomach-growling man wish to get up and go there: PieTown. And then too, there are the old photographsthose moving gelatin-silver prints, and the equally beautiful ones made in Kodachrome color, six and a half decades ago, at the heel of the Depression, on the eve of a global war, by a gifted, itinerant, government, documentary photographer working on behalf of FDRs New Deal. His name was Russell Lee. His Pie Town imagesand there are something like 600 of them preserved in the archives of the Library of Congressportrayed this little clot of high-mountain-desert New Mexico humanity in all of its redemptive, communal, hard-won glory. Many were published last year in Bound for Glory, Americain Color 1939-43. But lets get back to pie for a minute.
Is there a particular kind you like? Peggy Rawl, coowner of PieTowns Daily Pie Café, had asked sweetly on the phone, when I was still two-thirds of a continent away. There was clatter and much talk in the background. Id forgotten about the time difference between the East Coast and the Southwest and had called at an inopportune hour: lunchtime on a Saturday. But the chief confectioner was willing to take time out to ask what my favorite pie was so that she could have one ready when I got there.
Having known about PieTown for many years, I was itching to go. Youll find it on most maps, in west-central New Mexico, in CatronCounty. The way you get there is via U.S. 60. Theres almost no other way, unless you own a helicopter. Back when Russell Lee of the Farm Security Administration (FSA) went to Pie Town, U.S. 60nowhere near as celebrated a highway as its more northerly New Mexico neighbor, Route 66, on which you got your kickscalled itself the ocean to ocean highway. Big stretches werent even paved. Late last summer, when I made the trek, the road was paved just fine, but it was still an extremely lonesome two lane ribbon of asphalt. Weve long licked the idea of distance and remoteness in America, and yet there remain places and roads like PieTown and U.S. 60. They sit yet back beyond the moon, or at least they feel that way, and this, too, explains part of their beckoning.
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Bump
“Life must have been so hard,” I said, as we drove to the homestead. It was out of town a little ways.
“Yeah, but you didn’t know it,” he said.
“You never wanted a better life, an easier one?”
“Well, you didn’t know no better one. A fellow doesn’t know a better one, he won’t want one.”
The article almost makes amends for the Smithsonian’s Enola Gay debacle.
We always stop in Pie Town on our way to Payson AZ.
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