Posted on 11/20/2008 4:56:08 PM PST by Dooderbutt
Hate to ask, but is it possible the wiper motor is fine and it is just a blown fuse?
The picture in the manual shows the underhood fuse block. Looking under the front hood, the underhood fuse block is the box north of the battery. Hope this helps.
If all else fails go to the Chev. Dealership parts department and ask one of them to print you a layout of the wiper motor. Most likely they will and it should give you a detail drawing of the assembly.
90% of the time it is the circuit board behind outside cover of wiper motor. wiper motor is located on firewall on drivers side of engine compartment just below windshield cowl on vertical part of firewall just inboard from power brake booster. 3 or 4 small bolts hold cover on and simply unplug and replace. best test if it is circuit board is to see if wiper motor starts by tapping same outside cover lightly. it is a PITA for most DIY’ers.
good luck
Whatever you do, make sure you disconnect the battery first.
I’m normally pretty handy, but I blew out a headlight switch the other day working on the console.
I ferget the headlight switch is always hot!!
see the diagram in #18...from autozone
This is the best forum (both with camaraderie and smarts) that I have ever been at...I love you all!
Thanks again, and I will you all the happiest and most amazing Thanksgiving!
LOL! It’s the nickname I have for my 110 pound Pit Bull. He hasn’t got pissed off with it yet, so I think I’m fine!!
Good for you! Actually, most auto work is fairly easy, as long as you don’t mind getting dirty.
I just this week got what I consider a MAJOR SCORE!!
Chassis Overhaul Manual and
Chassis Service Manual
Chevrolet Chevelle
Chevy II Corvette
!966 Edition
Printed Fall, 1965
Chevrolet Corporation
So I find out:
My car is 17’ 9” long
Curb weight 3,685 pounds
350 engine putting out about 360 HP
But I gotta say out of all the things I can do, even if it’s crawling underneath replacing the starter, or whatever, I hate electrical the most...
:-(
Bottom line - buy the manual, it’s well worth it.
I’m really really glad you came back and told us because I have been holding my breath since post #4...
Take it to Mr. Goodwrench.
Have the problem verified than buck up and pay up.
Dood got it done. Might have voided his warranty, but...
With all the egr and weird electrical stuff on newer rigs, things that used to be obvious ain’t so much anymore.
Years ago, my wife had a leak in her Geo. I crawled underneath and it was obvious it was coming from the oil filter. She took it in and they said it “might” be the tranny.
I got fed up, had to jack it up and block it because it was only about 4 inched off the ground, and pulled the filter. There was a tiny piece of ground metal under the oil filter ring. Coulda cranked that thing tight until hell froze over and it would have never sealed - NEVER.
So I took the filter back to 13 Monkeys Lube and Tune or whatever and asked to talk to the manager.
This pimply faced kid about 13 comes out and I hand him the filter in a plastic bag and explained I would never come back to the joint.
He hands me a new filter and I was outa there.
So it’s easy to say to take it to some professional but when they make a mistake you start to change yur tune...
But I have to admit unless it’s something simple like changing plugs or an alternator or whatever, I don’t like working on newer stuff, because unless you have the machine to read the codes, you might end up SOL.
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